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Routes in Upper Cliff

Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bishop T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fantastic Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Max Factor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Stuff T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tramp, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,936 total, 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 5, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This corner is often wet, which is nice 'cause then you have an excuse not to lead it.... However, when it drys out, it is a great climb to test yourself on....I've climbed harder grades, but this is one of the most strenuous leads I've done.... Be ready to sweat....

Starts out as a nice, hand crack leading up to a low roof the hand crack turns to off-width and the fun starts.... Climb out of the roof with awkward positioning and slippery feet till the crack turns to hands again.... A stance will let you catch your breath.... There seems to be options at the top, but I follow a thin finger crack and a few face moves to the top....

Location

To the left of Obscene Phone Call (5.8), there is an intimidating corner with a roof about 10 feet off the ground, this is Climber's Corner....

Protection

A regular rack could do it, but I used a #5 Camalot in the offwidth, roof crack (I just love to play with big cams, I guess), and it was helpful....

Belay or TR from trees....

Photos

Alec Woolley
Nottingham, NH
  5.10b/c
Alec Woolley   Nottingham, NH
  5.10b/c
Favorite 10 in the park! Getting that kneebar is phenomenal. Extremely strenuous if you miss it. May 16, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.10+
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.10+
Stout. Nov 15, 2015
Jeremy A
NH
  5.10
Jeremy A   NH
  5.10
Finally lead this one clean the other day. Never top roped it. Went for the lead. Strenuous and exciting with a great knee bar rest. Definitely on the top of the list now. Oct 6, 2014
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
MY favorite climb on the upper cliff. wc6 and bd4 make it comfortable for me. Sep 12, 2009