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Routes in Upper Cliff

Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bishop T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fantastic Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Max Factor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Stuff T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tramp, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,070 total, 9/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Apr 28, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Take a chimney climb, add in a finger sized crack for gear, an optional bouldery start as well as a face climb finish, and you've got a fun route with a great view that hasn't gotten much love in a lot of years. Near the left end of the Upper Cliff before reaching the trail to the top, a detached block creates a left facing chimney. A couple of boulder ledges abutt the trail directly below. Scramble up the ledges for the direct bouldery start (or bypass by walking around on the right). Pull into the chimney with the aid of the finger crack and the arete of the block. Plug and play up the chimney and crack, exit onto the top of the block and step across to the ledge. If you stop here, you miss the great view from the top.

To continue, albeit runout, climb straight up the low angle, flake covered face to a cluster of trees. Rig an anchor and enjoy the view of South and Middle Mountains, Round Pond, and North Marsh. Belay here and walk off left.

Location

Left end of Upper Cliff, 20' left of the Roof. Locate the chimney created by a large detached block, start on the trail next to boulder ledge. Best to walk off left.

Protection

Standard rack up to #1 camalot. Sling trees at top for anchor.

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