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Routes in Upper Cliff

Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bishop T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fantastic Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Max Factor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Stuff T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tramp, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,789 total, 22/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 5, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Jam and grovel your way up the double cracks using hand and fist jams and even butt jams to gain a rest ledge on the right.... Climb back to the left and place your big cam then fire the last few feet....

A fun, beginner climb good for getting folks to think outside of the box....

Location

Walk left along the cliff from Obscene Phone Call (5.8).... A short distance along look for an alcove with a double crack in a corner.... The cracks start from a ledge that is easy to access, you climb the two cracks to a short, off-width section to the top....

Protection

A few wide cams #3 and #3.5 Camalots are nice and an OW piece as well, #5 maybe....

Easily top-roped from trees.

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
This is a G-Rated lead with just a #3 and #4 cam, with some strategic bumping up and leapfrogging of the cams (from very comfortable secure positions). A .75 may be nice at the ledge before going for the top out and before you can reach the final #4 cam placement. I also agree on 5.6, if only for the top-out moves. Nov 12, 2016
This is one tough, tough 5.5. I would call it a sandbag, if it wasn't for the consistency otherwise, with respect to the ratings of the other crack climbs up there at Upper Cliff. Basically add 1 numeral to your thoughts on how this climb will feel. It was like a 5.6 anywhere else (except Gunks lol).

Awkward, and a little scary actually. Fun though! Although that top section after the ledge is plain old horrible. Makes you think. Makes you commit. And it makes you kind of shake in your boots. Oct 20, 2013
Adam Wilcox
Candia, NH
 
Adam Wilcox   Candia, NH
 
I found a #5 to be too big to really use where I wanted it up top. A #4 fit pretty well.

Awkward, grubby top-out, but still fun. Aug 23, 2008