Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,039 total · 21/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 5, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

Jam and grovel your way up the double cracks using hand and fist jams and even butt jams to gain a rest ledge on the right.... Climb back to the left and place your big cam then fire the last few feet....

A fun, beginner climb good for getting folks to think outside of the box....

Location

Walk left along the cliff from Obscene Phone Call (5.8).... A short distance along look for an alcove with a double crack in a corner.... The cracks start from a ledge that is easy to access, you climb the two cracks to a short, off-width section to the top....

Protection

A few wide cams #3 and #3.5 Camalots are nice and an OW piece as well, #5 maybe....

Easily top-roped from trees.

Photos

Adam Wilcox
Candia, NH
 
Adam Wilcox   Candia, NH
 
I found a #5 to be too big to really use where I wanted it up top. A #4 fit pretty well.

Awkward, grubby top-out, but still fun. Aug 23, 2008
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This is one tough, tough 5.5. I would call it a sandbag, if it wasn't for the consistency otherwise, with respect to the ratings of the other crack climbs up there at Upper Cliff. Basically add 1 numeral to your thoughts on how this climb will feel. It was like a 5.6 anywhere else (except Gunks lol).

Awkward, and a little scary actually. Fun though! Although that top section after the ledge is plain old horrible. Makes you think. Makes you commit. And it makes you kind of shake in your boots. Oct 20, 2013
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
This is a G-Rated lead with just a #3 and #4 cam, with some strategic bumping up and leapfrogging of the cams (from very comfortable secure positions). A .75 may be nice at the ledge before going for the top out and before you can reach the final #4 cam placement. I also agree on 5.6, if only for the top-out moves. Nov 12, 2016