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Routes in Upper Cliff

Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bishop T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fantastic Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Max Factor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Stuff T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tramp, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,995 total, 16/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 31, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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I don't know who put the minus in the grade of this route but they were either wicked tough or really mean.... By modern standards, it would be given a 5.9 without second thought, but then again what do modern climbers know compared to our elders, how to sew cracks up with gear then talk about how hard they are.... OK, I'll shut up....

The next crack right of Double chin is The Start and the start is the crux.... Perhaps 15 feet of bad-sized, jam cracks (for me it is wide fingers/thin hands, purple or green Camalot.... I find it hard to do anything but slide out.... When you get it, though, it feels great and after the first part you gain a good face hold and better jamming to a stance, and more moderate climbing to the summit....


The next crack right from Double Chin (5.6).


Regular rack.... Belay from top on gear or from trees....


Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
I'm with you Lee, .5 or .8 may be the historical grade, but definitly a .9 in my book. Sep 10, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
I did it again and felt it was straight up 5.9... after another 30 laps maybe it will start feeling 5.8... i find the most helpful thing is figuring out how to put all your weight on your feet...

thanks both of you for your historical views... Joe Cote is the man, i always enjoy running in to him and talking about as much of the old days as he will let me get away with... He is super inspiring and equally humble... On the topic of routes getting harder, Joe and I have talked about some of his FAs getting harder with time, not sure if thats the case with the Start but its a bit polished these days... Sep 10, 2009
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Growing up in the area, I remember this being one of the benchmark 5.8's. I also remember my Dad telling me a good story about it. When he and his friends started climbing in 1969-1970, Pawtuckaway was the closest crag to their homes. He was familiar with The Start, but I don't think he had climbed it yet. He and his friend were meeting Joe Cote out at the Upper Cliff one day and arrived a little after Joe did. When they walked up to the crag, Joe was nonchalantly finishing up a third-class ascent of The Start and it completely blew my Dad away. 5.8 was nearly as hard as free-climbs got at the time, and there Joe was, soloing on one. Jul 27, 2008
Bryan Gilmore
New England
Bryan Gilmore   New England
5.9-, what are you talking about? The Start was only 5.8 when I did it for the first time in ah... something like 1988. Man, I just keep getting better. Jun 17, 2007