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Routes in Upper Cliff

Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bishop T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fantastic Face TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Max Factor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Stuff T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tramp, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,938 total · 24/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 6, 2012
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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I'm not sure of the history of this climb. I figured I'd put a name on it cause i think it's one of my favorites on the cliff right now and I want others to check it out. If anyone knows if it has a real name please let me know and I'll add it. I will post a photo topo soon.

Between Bishop and Climbers Corner there is a narrow chimney, climb the chimney until you can climb on to the face hand traversing 8 feet right on good holds. A fun heel hook move gets you to jugs. Climb 10 feet of moderate rock to a narrow ledge. To here it is around 5.7, but to gain the top you need to climb the VERY thin finger crack (5.10) in a shallow left facing corner to good crimps and the perfect top out.


Between Bishop and Climbers Corner, start in the tight chimney and trend up and right to end up above Climber's Corner.


I TRed it but there might be options for protection. I didn't look.


Lee, after looking at the old '95 guide to Pawtuckaway the route you posted looks & sounds like Bloody Fingers 5.9+ PG

"Ascend the first 10 feet of Wedged Chimney. Step right to ledge on Rescue Wall face. Move right to small facing corner with crack. Ascend crack and face above it to top.
Var: Sausage Fingers 5.7+: From small left facing corner with crack move just right of crack to face of block. Face climb block up a few feet until it is possible to move left to face above crack. Climb face to top."

Haven't climbed it yet but been meaning to... Looks like a lot fun...

If you're up for a challenge there's a 5.12 that goes up between Bloody Fingers and the Climbers Corner... May 16, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
awesome ill change the name... thanks for the info... the name is fitting haha... the grade is a bit of a sandbag but hey that's par for the Pawtuckaway course so i changed that too... plan to work "5.10+ hard" for those few crack moves
ill have to check out that direct line at some point... sounds interesting... May 16, 2012
Your welcome for the info. on the route.

Well the grade could be on par... Seeing that an old school 5.9+ could be just as hard as 5.10b. If I understood correctly from another forum site that hit upon the subject of ratings a while back... May 18, 2012

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