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Routes in Upper Cliff

Bean Pole T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bishop T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bloody Fingers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chamonix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Climber's Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperate Depression T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Devilish Diversion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
Diagonal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Chin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Jam T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fantastic Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Out Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Flake Polka TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Max Factor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ms. Pac Man T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Answer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscene Phone Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PB & J T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Stuff T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Start, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tramp, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,894 total, 23/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 31, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great crack to hone your hand jamming skills.... As with many upper cliff cracks, if it was longer it would be classic....

Start awkwardly to get around the tree...Actually you will have to use the tree at the start if you want it to be close to 5.6.... After that, hand jam past 2 small roofs (hence the name Double Chin) and up more jamming and some killer face holds to the top of the cliff....

Belay from the top on gear or from trees far back from the edge....

Location

To the right of Diagonal (5.7+), there is a tree. This route starts right behind the tree and heads up right.... Actually, the tree grows right out of the bottom of the crack....

Protection

Standard rack to #3 Camalot.... Takes gear very well....
J Meagher
  5.6
J Meagher  
  5.6
Well when I did it yesterday there definitely were spots for hand jams but me and 2 other people (who both have bigger hands than me) both felt it was a mostly fist crack. But either way the foot jams are perfect so its all good :) Apr 7, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
normally #2 cams are considered "hand sized" but as we know hands come in many sizes... for me this is perfect hands leading to a fist or 2 at the top... and as you say perfect feet :) an extra 20 feet of this climb would be great but i think another 500 ft would really get me going! Apr 6, 2014
J Meagher
  5.6
J Meagher  
  5.6
If only it were 20 feet longer :( I love the foot jams on this, they're so good it feels like you're standing on a ledge. Fist jams may be a more accurate description than hand jams though Apr 6, 2014