Elevation: 1,443 ft
GPS: 44.653, -71.301 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 41,917 total · 1,014/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Aug 24, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

Areas in the Great North Woods region - The northern part of the state, beyond the Presidential Range

Getting There

Great North Woods original map from visitnh.gov/information/abo…
See directions to the individual areas

56 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Great North Woods Region

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 11
● South West Face
Trad 3 pitches
N Percy Peak
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 8
● Lichen It
Sport
Mt Forist > 6. The Arete Area
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 13
● Madigan
Sport
Mt Forist > 3. Madigan Area
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
● Subtle like Bob Ross
Trad 3 pitches
Mt Forist > 2. S End
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
● Half Blind and Fully Baked
Trad
Mt Forist > 2. S End
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
● Berliner (Ich Ben Ein Berliner)
Trad
Mt Forist > 4. Middle Forist Area
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
● October Sundae
Trad 7 pitches
N Bald Cap > 1. Main Slab Area
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
● Road North Start to Ingy's Ice C…
Trad 7 pitches
N Bald Cap > 1. Main Slab Area
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
● Forist Grump
Trad
Mt Forist > 3. Madigan Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
● Hostile Territory
Trad 2 pitches
Mt Forist > 4. Middle Forist Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
● Mantle Peace
Sport
Mt Forist > 4. Middle Forist Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
● Business Trip
Sport
Mt Forist > 6. The Arete Area
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
● Skate-y Cat
Trad 3 pitches
Mt Forist > 4. Middle Forist Area
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
● Mancation
Sport
N Bald Cap > 5. Lost Boys Area
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
● Flying Moose Arete
Sport 2 pitches
N Bald Cap > 5. Lost Boys Area
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● South West Face N Percy Peak
 11
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 3 pitches
● Lichen It Mt Forist > 6. The Arete Area
 8
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
● Madigan Mt Forist > 3. Madigan Area
 13
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
● Subtle like Bob Ross Mt Forist > 2. S End
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Half Blind and Fully Baked Mt Forist > 2. S End
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Berliner (Ich Ben Ein Berli… Mt Forist > 4. Middle Forist Area
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● October Sundae N Bald Cap > 1. Main Slab Area
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
● Road North Start to Ingy's… N Bald Cap > 1. Main Slab Area
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
● Forist Grump Mt Forist > 3. Madigan Area
 9
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Hostile Territory Mt Forist > 4. Middle Forist Area
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
● Mantle Peace Mt Forist > 4. Middle Forist Area
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Business Trip Mt Forist > 6. The Arete Area
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Skate-y Cat Mt Forist > 4. Middle Forist Area
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
● Mancation N Bald Cap > 5. Lost Boys Area
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Flying Moose Arete N Bald Cap > 5. Lost Boys Area
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Great North Woods Region »

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Photos

Dixville Notch, Looking East
Dixville Notch, Looking East
 1
Mt Forist Overview
Mt Forist Overview
 2
The Outlook - Telephoto from the open field at the base of North Bald Cap
The Outlook - Telephoto from the open field at…
 4
Overview of North Bald Cap
Overview of North Bald Cap
 1
Devil's Slide, Stark, NH (see COMMENTs)
Devil's Slide, Stark, NH (see COMMENTs)
 1

10 Comments

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Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
Does anybody out there have any information on the routes that have "recently" been bolted on Devil's Slide, above the town of Stark? Out for a walk today and saw about 7 bolted lines and a handful of anchors midway up. I grew up in town and started technical climbing once I had left, so in the back of my mind I had always wondered about the rock, which honestly had always and still does, look like a choss pile. Love to hear some beta if anyone has some though. Thanks. Nov 20, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
You should try to talk to Jon Sykes and Scott Lovell. On NEClimbs there was mention of some routes there. It does sound like a big choss heap, but maybe with a bunch a crowbarring there might be something good underneath. Nov 20, 2015
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
Thanks for the info. Seemed to point me in the right direction. Nov 20, 2015
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
i looked at Devils several times and did nothing. IMO worthless

Good luck getting to Sycho via email

There is another crag up there,,very good and hideous approach..I say nothing Nov 20, 2015
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Is there any rock climbing at Reflection Crag / Stevens Point in Gorham? Nov 22, 2015
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
J--check with peter lewis through MP...if there's anything , he will know Nov 23, 2015
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
A long, long time ago on a rainy "AMC Cannon" weekend, us soggy climbers drove up to Stark. I have always remembered what we saw as a low-angle, mossy slab, but have never been able to find it again...my memory did NOT agree with what Devil's Slide looked like (see photo).

Last weekend was in the area again and stopped to look at Devil's Slide. One of the locals who lived near the slide was outside so I asked him if there was another, lower-angled slide/slab in the area. He said "No".

He also said his son was a rock climber (so I figured he knew at least something about climbing). He said "Some climbers were here and did a lot of rock removal, climbed but didn't make the top." He pointed to the left side of the cliff, just right of a top gully, which looked the cleanest to me. (see photo) Feb 5, 2016
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Of course there's the "other" crag outside berlin (not Florist) but I don't know about it..... except for the cool roof crack and the nice rock and.... Feb 8, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I think I was just reading about that cliff in Bayard's blog (lots of good reading); Square Mountain, NW of Berlin. It looks great. I would love to have more information.
cathedralmountainguides.com…

Map It looks like a lot of rock! Mar 10, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
A nice side shot of Square Mountain

from vftt.org/forums/showthread.…-(03-Dec-2010)

It looks like there is another Greens, Greens Ledge, just east of Square, John! I think I should write a 'Climber's Guide To All the Greens, Square and Owls Cliffs of NH' some time to get them all straight. Mar 10, 2016