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Areas in WM: North Conway

Cemetery Cliff 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Humphrey's Ledge 33 / 19 / 1 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 58
Saco Crag 4 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Description

work in progress - this one's got to be good. Who's up for it?

The two most popular destination areas surrounding the town of North Conway - Cathedral Ledge
and Whitehorse Ledge have their own main headings

Getting There

WM: North Conway area original map from visitnh.gov/information/abo…

Most New England climbers know how to get to North Conway, sort of the way New York City climbers know how to get to the Gunks.

However, for those from out-of-area here are a few tips:

1) Driving from the south - Almost everywhere is south of North Conway, although a few places, like the Adirondacks, are West. Get a map of NH and find Rochester. It's about 60 miles south of North Conway. Drive north on Route 16 to North Conway...simple! Alternately, plug zip code 03860 into your GPS and follow its directions.

2) Driving from the west - "Can't get there from here." For example, "as the crow flys" the High Peaks/Chapel Pond areas of the Adirondacks are about 150 miles from North Conway, and about 180 miles by road (and ferry). Figure on 4 1/2 to 5 hours. The fastest way seems to be the Essex-Charlotte ferry, north to Rt 89, (easiest, but not the fastest, is to take Rt 7 north to Rt 89), then Rt 89 south to Montpelier, Rt 2 east to Rt 91, Rt 91 south to Rt 93, Rt 93 south to Route 302 and Rt 302 east to North Conway. Told ya !

3) Flying in - While "gut reaction" is to fly into either Boston (3 hrs drive), or Manchester (2 to 2 1/2 hrs drive) the closest commercial airport is actually Portland Maine. It is only about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 hr drive to North Conway. [Take Maine Rt 22W to Rt 114N to Rt 25W to Rt 113N to Rt 302W in Fryeburg ME, then 302W into North Conway; do NOT take Rt 302 all the way, esp. in summer)

If you're lucky enough to fly by private plane, Fryeburg Maine has a very nice regional airport with a paved runway. We used to have one in North Conway, but it got turned into a shopping center!

65 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at WM: North Conway

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 9
Lateralus
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 5
Hobbit Juice
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 26
Cake Walk
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Gaggle of Geese
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 57
Wanderlust
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 23
It's Not What It Seems
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Run Don't Walk
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
A Piece of Cake
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 20
Above and Beyond
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 24
Around the Corner
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
It's Five What?
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 17
Robinson Crusoe
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Lost and Found
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Castaways
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
Move it or Lose it
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lateralus Humphrey's Ledge > Humphrey's Bouldering
 9
V0 4 Boulder
Hobbit Juice Humphrey's Ledge > Humphrey's Bouldering
 5
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Cake Walk Humphrey's Ledge > Cake Walk Area
 26
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Gaggle of Geese Humphrey's Ledge > Geriatric Walls
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Wanderlust Humphrey's Ledge > Cake Walk Area
 57
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
It's Not What It Seems Humphrey's Ledge > Geriatric Walls
 23
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Run Don't Walk Humphrey's Ledge > Cake Walk Area
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
A Piece of Cake Humphrey's Ledge > Cake Walk Area
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Above and Beyond Humphrey's Ledge > Cake Walk Area
 20
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Around the Corner Humphrey's Ledge > Geriatric Walls
 24
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
It's Five What? Humphrey's Ledge > Dedication Area
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Robinson Crusoe Humphrey's Ledge > Dedication Area
 17
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Lost and Found Humphrey's Ledge > Geriatric Walls
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Castaways Humphrey's Ledge > Dedication Area
 9
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Move it or Lose it Humphrey's Ledge > Dedication Area
 14
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
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Photos

Max Zielinski
Western MA
Max Zielinski   Western MA
On a hot summer day, the rope swing by the river is an awesome cool way to not get baked alive on the wall, with a nice concrete boulder problem to boot. Go to the first bridge on the way to Whitehorse/Cathedral from town; this is where everyone hangs out with the portapotties/trash cans, etc. On the close side of the bridge is a support structure with concrete pylons, the nearest of which can be climbed as a V2 deep water boulder, surprisingly fun with a crimp, sloper and heelhook. Grab a stick to reach the rope! Waaay better than suffering in the sun before the cliffs go into the shade in the afternoon. Also go to Saco crag and get on that 0.75 splitter! Sep 20, 2018

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