Elevation: 528 ft
GPS: 44.055, -71.129 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 124,545 total · 1,762/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Aug 24, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

work in progress - this one's got to be good. Who's up for it?

The two most popular destination areas surrounding the town of North Conway - Cathedral Ledge
and Whitehorse Ledge have their own main headings

Getting There

WM: North Conway area original map from visitnh.gov/information/abo…

Most New England climbers know how to get to North Conway, sort of the way New York City climbers know how to get to the Gunks.

However, for those from out-of-area here are a few tips:

1) Driving from the south - Almost everywhere is south of North Conway, although a few places, like the Adirondacks, are West. Get a map of NH and find Rochester. It's about 60 miles south of North Conway. Drive north on Route 16 to North Conway...simple! Alternately, plug zip code 03860 into your GPS and follow its directions.

2) Driving from the west - "Can't get there from here." For example, "as the crow flys" the High Peaks/Chapel Pond areas of the Adirondacks are about 150 miles from North Conway, and about 180 miles by road (and ferry). Figure on 4 1/2 to 5 hours. The fastest way seems to be the Essex-Charlotte ferry, north to Rt 89, (easiest, but not the fastest, is to take Rt 7 north to Rt 89), then Rt 89 south to Montpelier, Rt 2 east to Rt 91, Rt 91 south to Rt 93, Rt 93 south to Route 302 and Rt 302 east to North Conway. Told ya !

3) Flying in - While "gut reaction" is to fly into either Boston (3 hrs drive), or Manchester (2 to 2 1/2 hrs drive) the closest commercial airport is actually Portland Maine. It is only about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 hr drive to North Conway. [Take Maine Rt 22W to Rt 114N to Rt 25W to Rt 113N to Rt 302W in Fryeburg ME, then 302W into North Conway; do NOT take Rt 302 all the way, esp. in summer)

If you're lucky enough to fly by private plane, Fryeburg Maine has a very nice regional airport with a paved runway. We used to have one in North Conway, but it got turned into a shopping center!

109 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at WM: North Conway

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 21
Lateralus
Boulder
V3 6A
 4
Vale of Shadows
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 40
Cakewalk
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
Gaggle of Geese
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 69
Wanderlust
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 30
It's Not What It Seems
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Run Don't Walk
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
A Piece of Cake
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 22
Above and Beyond
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 29
Around the Corner
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 25
Robinson Crusoe
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
Lost and Found
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Mother Jugs & Speed
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Castaways
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
Move it or Lose it
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lateralus Humphrey's Ledge > Humphrey's Bouldering
 21
V0 4 Boulder
Vale of Shadows Humphrey's Ledge > Humphrey's Bouldering
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Cakewalk Humphrey's Ledge > 2. The Cakewalk Area
 40
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Gaggle of Geese Humphrey's Ledge > 1. The Geriatric Walls
 27
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Wanderlust Humphrey's Ledge > 2. The Cakewalk Area
 69
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
It's Not What It Seems Humphrey's Ledge > 1. The Geriatric Walls
 30
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Run Don't Walk Humphrey's Ledge > 2. The Cakewalk Area
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
A Piece of Cake Humphrey's Ledge > 2. The Cakewalk Area
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Above and Beyond Humphrey's Ledge > 2. The Cakewalk Area
 22
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Around the Corner Humphrey's Ledge > 1. The Geriatric Walls
 29
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Robinson Crusoe Humphrey's Ledge > 3. Dedication Area
 25
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Lost and Found Humphrey's Ledge > 1. The Geriatric Walls
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Mother Jugs & Speed Saco Crag
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Castaways Humphrey's Ledge > 3. Dedication Area
 12
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Move it or Lose it Humphrey's Ledge > 3. Dedication Area
 16
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
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