Elevation: 2,000 ft
GPS: 43.91799, -71.58519
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 485,779 total · 3,541/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 26, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description

Waterville Valley was rightfully considered a climbing backwater, that is until the pandemic hit. Since then, development has continued unabated, and it has unearthed (literally) some really fantastic climbing. From the sweeping slabs of Dickie Ledge, to the forested mini-crags of Bald Knob/Yellowjacket; from the roadside sport climbing at Merriam Woods aka Russell Crags, to the soaring alpine cracks of Mt Osceola, there's likely something for everyone in them thar' hills. 

There's still a lot of untouched rock out there: some of it is good, some of it is terrible, and some of it is completely inaccessible. But people keep looking, hoping to stumble upon the next Waimea*, but more likely finding solitude, beautiful mountain views, and a profound respect for the uniqueness of the Waterville Valley area.

*If you read the previous version of this page, you'll know that I said we're all looking for the next Main Cliff. We found it here! So now we're looking for the next Waimea. 

Getting There

Most of the climbing is accessed from Highway 49, which is Exit 28 of Interstate 93, or accessed off Tripoli Road, which is Exit 31 of Interstate 93. Tripoli Road is closed from November through May. 

WM: Waterville Valley area original map from visitnh.gov/information/abo…

306 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at WM: Waterville Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
 4
Double Heelix
Boulder
V5 6C
 10
Trillium
Boulder
V5 6C
 3
The Big Short
Boulder
V5+ 6C+
 6
Trillium Sit
Boulder
V5-6 6C+ R
 3
The Thanksgiver
Boulder
V7 7A+
 4
We Who Wander
Boulder
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Lurking in the Bushes
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Resident Evil
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Stone Frogs Don't Eat
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Sex on the Beach
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
Subversive Behavior
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 7
Brain Cramp
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
The Swordfighter
Sport, Alpine
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Members Only
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 3
The Horcrux
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double Heelix Goodrich Rock T… > … > Central Davis > Widowmaker Area
 4
V4 6B Boulder
Trillium Yellowjacket Area > Yellowjacket Boulder
 10
V5 6C Boulder
The Big Short Yellowjacket Area > Yellowjacket Boulder
 3
V5 6C Boulder
Trillium Sit Yellowjacket Area > Yellowjacket Boulder
 6
V5+ 6C+ Boulder
The Thanksgiver Goodrich Rock T… > … > Central Davis > Corridor Boulders
 3
V5-6 6C+ R Boulder
We Who Wander Welch & Dickey… > … > Lower Bowl > Wander Boulder
 4
V7 7A+ Boulder
Lurking in the Bushes Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 06. The Dark Side
 9
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Resident Evil Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 06. The Dark Side
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Stone Frogs Don't Eat Dickey Notch > Glacial Park
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Sex on the Beach Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 02. The Ocean
 13
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Subversive Behavior Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 02. The Ocean
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Brain Cramp Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 02. The Ocean
 7
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
The Swordfighter Mt Osceola > High Camp Crags > High Camp Cliff
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, Alpine
Members Only Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 02. The Ocean
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Horcrux Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 01. S America Wall
 3
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
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