Elevation: 2,000 ft
GPS: 43.918, -71.585 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 251,264 total · 2,138/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 26, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

Waterville Valley could rightfully be considered a climbing backwater. Most climbers are content to stare at the impressive Dickey Ledge, high on Dickey Mountain, and clearly visible from Interstate 93. Few, however, make the commitment to hike up there and climb on it. It makes sense that Waterville Valley receives so little attention from climbers, given that Cannon Cliff is just up the road, Rumney is fifteen minutes to the west, and North Conway is just an hour away.

Those who commit to hike the mile up to Dickey Ledge are rewarded with absolutely perfect granite and amazing mountain views. Dickey Ledge feels like a little piece of Joshua Tree that has been transplanted to the White Mountains. The slabs are long and exposed, and the cracks are short, steep, and vicious.

While Dickey Ledge receives probably 90% of the climbing traffic, others are content to scour the hills and mountains for more rock. There's a lot of rock out there: some of it is good, some of it is terrible, and some of it is completely inaccessible. But people keep looking, hoping to stumble upon the next Main Cliff, but more likely finding solitude, beautiful mountain views, and a profound respect for the uniqueness of the Waterville Valley area.

Getting There

Most of the climbing is accessed from Highway 49, which is Exit 28 of Interstate 93.
WM: Waterville Valley area original map from visitnh.gov/information/abo…

403 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: WM: Waterville Valley Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at WM: Waterville Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 7
Mayhem
Boulder
V5 6C
 10
Trillium
Boulder
V5 6C
 3
The Big Short
Boulder
V5-6 6C+ R
 3
The Thanksgiver
Boulder
V7 7A+
 4
We Who Wander
Boulder
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Lurking in the Bushes
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Never lonesome
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Resident Evil
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Sex on the Beach
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
Learn to Swim
Sport 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
Subversive Behavior
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Hermits Hideout
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 7
Brain Cramp
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Members Only
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 3
The Horcrux
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mayhem Goodrich Rock T… > … > Central Davis > Mayhem Boulder
 7
V5 6C Boulder
Trillium Bald Knob > Yellowjacket Area > Yellowjacket Boulder
 10
V5 6C Boulder
The Big Short Bald Knob > Yellowjacket Area > Yellowjacket Boulder
 3
V5 6C Boulder
The Thanksgiver Goodrich Rock T… > … > Central Davis > Corridor Boulders
 3
V5-6 6C+ R Boulder
We Who Wander Welch & Dickey… > … > Lower Bowl > Wander Boulder
 4
V7 7A+ Boulder
Lurking in the Bushes Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 06. The Dark Side
 8
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Never lonesome Bald Knob > … > Slablands > 2- Divination Slab
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Resident Evil Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 06. The Dark Side
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Sex on the Beach Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 02. The Ocean
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Learn to Swim Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 02. The Ocean
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 2 pitches
Subversive Behavior Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 02. The Ocean
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Hermits Hideout Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 06. The Dark Side
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Brain Cramp Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 02. The Ocean
 7
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Members Only Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 02. The Ocean
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Horcrux Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 01. S America Wall
 3
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in WM: Waterville Valley »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos