Elevation: 2,003 ft
GPS: 43.918, -71.585 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 154,039 total · 1,454/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 26, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

Waterville Valley could rightfully be considered a climbing backwater. Most climbers are content to stare at the impressive Dickey Ledge, high on Dickey Mountain, and clearly visible from Interstate 93. Few, however, make the commitment to hike up there and climb on it. It makes sense that Waterville Valley receives so little attention from climbers, given that Cannon Cliff is just up the road, Rumney is fifteen minutes to the west, and North Conway is just an hour away.

Those who commit to hike the mile up to Dickey Ledge are rewarded with absolutely perfect granite and amazing mountain views. Dickey Ledge feels like a little piece of Joshua Tree that has been transplanted to the White Mountains. The slabs are long and exposed, and the cracks are short, steep, and vicious.

While Dickey Ledge receives probably 90% of the climbing traffic, others are content to scour the hills and mountains for more rock. There's a lot of rock out there: some of it is good, some of it is terrible, and some of it is completely inaccessible. But people keep looking, hoping to stumble upon the next Main Cliff, but more likely finding solitude, beautiful mountain views, and a profound respect for the uniqueness of the Waterville Valley area.

Getting There

Most of the climbing is accessed from Highway 49, which is Exit 28 of Interstate 93.
WM: Waterville Valley area original map from visitnh.gov/information/abo…

247 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at WM: Waterville Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2+ 5+
 3
Tomahawk
Boulder
V3 6A
 9
The Bottom Falls Out
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 6
Thank You for Holding
Boulder
V5 6C
 7
Mayhem
Boulder
V5 6C
 8
Trillium
Boulder
V5 6C
 5
The Shutdown
Boulder
V5-6 6C+ R
 3
The Thanksgiver
Boulder
V7 7A+
 4
We Who Wander
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Half Stack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Lurking in the Bushes
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Resident Evil
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
Subversive Behavior
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Hermits Hideout
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 7
Brain Cramp
Trad
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 3
The Horcrux
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tomahawk Goodrich Rock T… > … > Discovery Valley > Discovery Boulder
 3
V2+ 5+ Boulder
The Bottom Falls Out Bald Knob > Yellowjacket Area > Yellowjacket Boulder
 9
V3 6A Boulder
Thank You for Holding Bald Knob > … > Hive > Holds Boulder
 6
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Mayhem Goodrich Rock T… > … > Central Davis > Mayhem Boulder
 7
V5 6C Boulder
Trillium Bald Knob > Yellowjacket Area > Yellowjacket Boulder
 8
V5 6C Boulder
The Shutdown Welch & Dickey… > … > Lower Bowl > Shutdown Boulder
 5
V5 6C Boulder
The Thanksgiver Goodrich Rock T… > … > Central Davis > Corridor Boulders
 3
V5-6 6C+ R Boulder
We Who Wander Welch & Dickey… > … > Lower Bowl > Wander Boulder
 4
V7 7A+ Boulder
Half Stack Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > Dark Side
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Lurking in the Bushes Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > Dark Side
 8
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Resident Evil Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > Dark Side
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Subversive Behavior Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > Ocean
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Hermits Hideout Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > Dark Side
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Brain Cramp Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > Ocean
 7
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
The Horcrux Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > S America Wall
 3
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in WM: Waterville Valley »

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