Elevation: 2,177 ft
GPS: 43.918, -71.587 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 44,402 total · 415/month
Shared By: Mike Zarnowski on Oct 26, 2011 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

The Welch Dicky loop trail is an extremely popular hiking trail and for good reason. The rocky peaks and many open granite slabs provide panoramic views along the length of the hike. About one mile up the Dickey trail is a quarter mile long rambling ledge with a fun variety of slabs and some really great cracks as well. The cliff is east facing and gets a lot of sun, so a cool day is best. The granite is nearly perfect and the location is spectacular. With a small rack and some quickdraws one can spend an enjoyable day here cragging below the hikers.

A new digital guidebook by Lee Hansche is available in the Gunks+ app, which includes high-res photos, GPS navigation and maps.

Getting There

Take Exit 28 off I 93 and head east on route 49 towards Waterville Valley. After about 5 miles turn left onto Upper Mad River Rd then turn right onto Osiris Rd. follow the hikers signs to the parking lot.

WMNF Fee Area!

There are two ways to reach the base of cliff. Start hiking up the Dickey, the left side of the loop trail, then after about a mile and just before reaching the main ledge head right down into the woods. The first area you will come to is the South America Wall. Alternatively a couple of hundred feet after stepping onto the top of the ledge there is an eye bolt anchor next to a small flake that can be used to rap down to The Beach, it is a little difficult to find at first but it is there. [ NOTE: The easy eyebolt anchor to find  [RHall photo] drops you to the anchor at the top of the Ocean, the "Beach Eyebolt" is harder to find....I haven't found it yet!  .RHall ]

53 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Dickey Ledge Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Dickey Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 5
The Flat Iron
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Viewfinder
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Watching You (L)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Goosebumps
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 3
Lurking Right
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Half Stack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Lurking in the Bushes
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Slab Therapy
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Resident Evil
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
The Good Book
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
Subversive Behavior
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Hermits Hideout
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Spinning Wheels
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 7
Brain Cramp
Trad
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 3
The Horcrux
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Flat Iron E Slab
 5
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Viewfinder Dark Passenger
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Watching You (L) Dark Passenger
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Goosebumps Beach
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Lurking Right Dark Side
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Half Stack Dark Side
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Lurking in the Bushes Dark Side
 8
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Slab Therapy Beach
 6
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Resident Evil Dark Side
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The Good Book S America Wall
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Subversive Behavior Ocean
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Hermits Hideout Dark Side
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Spinning Wheels Beach
 6
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Brain Cramp Ocean
 7
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
The Horcrux S America Wall
 3
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Dickey Ledge »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos