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Areas in Dickey Ledge

Backcountry, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Beach, The 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Central Tongue 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Dark Passenger, The 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Dark Side, The 12 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
East Slab 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Ocean, The 1 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
South America Wall 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Elevation: 2,177 ft
GPS: 43.918, -71.587 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,766 total · 234/month
Shared By: Michael Z. on Oct 26, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Description

The Welch Dicky loop trail is an extremely popular hiking trail and for good reason. The rocky peaks and many open granite slabs provide panoramic views along the length of the hike. About one mile up the Dickey trail is a quarter mile long rambling ledge with a fun variety of slabs and some really great cracks as well. The cliff is east facing and gets a lot of sun, so a cool day is best. The granite is nearly perfect and the location is spectacular. With a small rack and some quickdraws one can spend an enjoyable day here cragging below the hikers.

Getting There

Take Exit 28 off I 93 and head east on route 49 towards Waterville Valley. After about 5 miles turn left onto Upper Mad River Rd then turn right onto Osiris Rd. follow the hikers signs to the parking lot.

WMNF Fee Area!

There are two ways to reach the base of cliff. Start hiking up the Dickey, the left side of the loop trail, then after about a mile and just before reaching the main ledge head right down into the woods. The first area you will come to is the South America Wall. Alternatively a couple of hundred feet after stepping onto the top of the ledge there is an eye bolt anchor next to a small flake that can be used to rap down to The Beach, it is a little difficult to find at first but it is there.

48 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Dickey Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
The Flat Iron
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Viewfinder
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Toe
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goosebumps
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Highway Star
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lurking Right
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dark Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Stack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lurking in the Bushes
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Therapy
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Subversive Behavior
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
The Stack
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hermits Hideout
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Brain Cramp
Trad
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
The Horcrux
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Flat Iron E Slab 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Viewfinder Dark Passenger 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Dead Toe Beach 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Goosebumps Beach 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Highway Star Beach 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Lurking Right Dark Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Dark Crack Dark Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Half Stack Dark Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Lurking in the Bushes Dark Side 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Slab Therapy Beach 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Subversive Behavior Ocean 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
The Stack Dark Side 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
Hermits Hideout Dark Side 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Brain Cramp Ocean 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
The Horcrux S America Wall 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
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lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
I had a great time with Tom Bowker today as he gave me the grand tour of the cliff. I have spent a lot of time at Dickey but he has a unique perspective being the primary developer and most consistent visitor for the past 30 years! Thanks Tom for all the fantastic routes and sharing Dickie's rich history with me! Aug 6, 2017
A word about the approach, which was found to be a little confusing: The Welch-Dickie trail runs counter-clockwise in a loop over both mountains passing over the slabs towards its end. The fastest way to the slabs therefore is to head clockwise around the trail. So from the parking lot head to the left up the wide unmarked path. After a tenth of mile or so you will see a sign for the Welch-Dickie trail on the right. Take this and the slabs are maybe a bit less than a mile along.

Also, the traverse in across the base of the cliff was not hard once you find the good climber's path.

Jim Nov 9, 2014
bradley white   Bend
Rappelling from the 'Beach' top is way easier than the traverse of the ledge at the bottom Feb 5, 2014

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