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Elevation: 2,177 ft 664 m
GPS: 43.9179, -71.5871
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 74,364 total · 486/month
Shared By: Mike Zarnowski on Oct 26, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

The Welch Dicky loop trail is an extremely popular hiking trail and for good reason. The rocky peaks and many open granite slabs provide panoramic views along the length of the hike. About one mile up the Dickey trail is a quarter mile long rambling ledge with a fun variety of slabs and some really great cracks as well. The cliff is east facing and gets a lot of sun, so a cool day is best. The granite is nearly perfect and the location is spectacular. With a small rack and some quickdraws one can spend an enjoyable day here cragging below the hikers.

A new digital guidebook by Lee Hansche is available in the Gunks+ app, which includes high-res photos, GPS navigation and maps.

Getting There Suggest change

Take Exit 28 off I 93 and head east on route 49 towards Waterville Valley. After about 5 miles turn left onto Upper Mad River Rd then turn right onto Osiris Rd. follow the hikers signs to the parking lot.

WMNF Fee Area!

There are two ways to reach the base of cliff. Start hiking up the Dickey, the left side of the loop trail, then after about a mile and just before reaching the main ledge head right down into the woods.(see 4/13/23 COMMENT) The first area you will come to as you walk along the base is the South America Wall

 Alternatively a couple of hundred feet after stepping onto the top of the ledge there is an eye bolt anchor next to a small flake that can be used to rap down to The Beach, it is a little difficult to find at first but it is there.

 [ NOTE: The easy eyebolt anchor to find  [RHall photo] drops you to the anchor at the top of the Ocean, the "Beach Eyebolt" is harder to find....I haven't found it yet!  .RHall ]

54 Total Climbs

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Location: Dickey Ledge Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Dickey Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 8
The Flat Iron
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 10
Watching Me
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Viewfinder
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Watching You (L)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Dead Toe
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Goosebumps
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Lurking in the Bushes
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Resident Evil
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 6
South America Flake
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
Sex on the Beach
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 10
Learn to Swim
Sport 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
Subversive Behavior
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Hermits Hideout
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 7
Brain Cramp
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Members Only
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Flat Iron 07. E Slab
 8
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Watching Me 05. The Dark Passenger
 10
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Viewfinder 05. The Dark Passenger
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Watching You (L) 05. The Dark Passenger
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Dead Toe 03. The Beach
 11
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Goosebumps 03. The Beach
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Lurking in the Bushes 06. The Dark Side
 10
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Resident Evil 06. The Dark Side
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
South America Flake 01. S America Wall
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Sex on the Beach 02. The Ocean
 16
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Learn to Swim 02. The Ocean
 10
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 2 pitches
Subversive Behavior 02. The Ocean
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Hermits Hideout 06. The Dark Side
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Brain Cramp 02. The Ocean
 7
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Members Only 02. The Ocean
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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