All Locations > New Hampshire > WM: Waterville… > Welch & Dickey Area

Dickey Ledge Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Dickey Ledge

01. South America Wall 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9

02. The Ocean 1 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

03. The Beach 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

04. Central Tongue 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

05. The Dark Passenger 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

06. The Dark Side 12 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

07. East Slab 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

08. The Backcountry 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Elevation:	2,177 ft
GPS:	43.9179, -71.5871 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	73,494 total · 529/month
Shared By:	Mike Zarnowski on Oct 26, 2011 · Updates
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

Description

The Welch Dicky loop trail is an extremely popular hiking trail and for good reason. The rocky peaks and many open granite slabs provide panoramic views along the length of the hike. About one mile up the Dickey trail is a quarter mile long rambling ledge with a fun variety of slabs and some really great cracks as well. The cliff is east facing and gets a lot of sun, so a cool day is best. The granite is nearly perfect and the location is spectacular. With a small rack and some quickdraws one can spend an enjoyable day here cragging below the hikers.

A new digital guidebook by Lee Hansche is available in the Gunks+ app, which includes high-res photos, GPS navigation and maps.

Getting There

Take Exit 28 off I 93 and head east on route 49 towards Waterville Valley. After about 5 miles turn left onto Upper Mad River Rd then turn right onto Osiris Rd. follow the hikers signs to the parking lot.

WMNF Fee Area!

There are two ways to reach the base of cliff. Start hiking up the Dickey, the left side of the loop trail, then after about a mile and just before reaching the main ledge head right down into the woods. The first area you will come to is the South America Wall. Alternatively a couple of hundred feet after stepping onto the top of the ledge there is an eye bolt anchor next to a small flake that can be used to rap down to The Beach, it is a little difficult to find at first but it is there.

[ NOTE: The easy eyebolt anchor to find [RHall photo] drops you to the anchor at the top of the Ocean, the "Beach Eyebolt" is harder to find....I haven't found it yet! .RHall ]

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Dickey Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 6 ● The Flat Iron Trad 07. E Slab
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 10 ● Watching You (L) Trad 05. The Dark Passenger
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 13 ● Viewfinder Trad 2 pitches 05. The Dark Passenger
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 3 ● Lurking Right Trad 06. The Dark Side
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 7 ● Half Stack Trad 06. The Dark Side
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 9 ● Lurking in the Bushes Trad 06. The Dark Side
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 13 ● Resident Evil Trad 06. The Dark Side
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 6 ● South America Flake Trad 01. S America Wall
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 13 ● Sex on the Beach Sport 02. The Ocean
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 8 ● Learn to Swim Sport 2 pitches 02. The Ocean
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 8 ● Subversive Behavior Sport 02. The Ocean
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 5 ● Hermits Hideout Trad 06. The Dark Side
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a 7 ● Brain Cramp Trad 02. The Ocean
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 4 ● Members Only Sport 02. The Ocean
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a 3 ● The Horcrux Sport 01. S America Wall