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Routes in The Dark Passenger

Dark Corridor (L) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Say Nothing T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Viewfinder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Watching Me T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Watching You (L) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Worlds Collide (L) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Lee Hansche 8/29/17 w/ assistance from Torie Kidd
Page Views: 228 total · 21/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 30, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

The name says it all. This route finishes spectacularly with one of my favorite views in the White Mountains. On top of that expect fun varied climbing on amazing granite from bottom to top!

My vision for this line was to open up a safe climb at a moderate grade for folks getting in to trad climbing. So I did add some bolts where I would have just run it out personally. It is not however a sport route so expect some run out sections on 5.3-ish climbing.

Pitch 1: The start moves and the finish move are the hardest parts for sure. Either stem off of the tree to gain the flake or (perhaps a little hard for 5.7) avoid the tree. Either way protect above the flake (the flake makes a good hold but I wouldn't trust it with a cam behind it in a fall). Mantle a nice ledge and then clip a couple of bolts while figuring out a tricky slab. After the tricky bit romp up a very easy slab following a clean white streak and eventually gaining a belay at an oak tree (rappel set up on tree).

Pitch 2: Step above the tree on to a couple of ledges. Move right to an big flake and use this to get up on top of the low angle slab above. Another cruiser slab (a little run out but 5.3) leads to two short slab headwalls with a ledge between. Surmount these slabs protected by bolts and gear and move up on a ledge to stand below the final sleep headwall. With a little finesse make your way in to the obvious crack with good pro. Be carful of one block that wouldn't be good to protect behind. Make your way through the path of least resistance until an obvious finishing crux makes you think twice. I used high feet and solid balance to lean out left for a thank god hold and a final mantle to the 2 bolt anchor.

Enjoy the view while you bring up your second.

2 rappels with a 60m rope should get you down in style (throw knots in the ends just in case of course ;)

Location

There is a short wall on the left side of the Dark Side area. This climb starts on the extreme left end of this wall. Look for an obvious flake slightly left of a large tree trunk.

Protection

A normal rack up to #3 Camelot and some draws.

Photos

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