Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Lee Hansche
Page Views: 180 total · 8/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 13, 2017
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

After a recent cleaning this thing is even more fun than I'd imagined.

The runout sections are super easy but a fall is out of the question in some of those spots. You could do a well protected link-up by breaking left just after mantling the slab and climbing the finish of Watching You (and happily clipping the bolts).

Climb up the chimney (easier if you stay outside the chimney) with good protection and then up on to the block that forms the right side of the crack. You can get a sneaky nut placement before stepping across over the chimney and gaining an easy mantel on to the low angle slab. Scamper up the easy slab keeping an eye out for gear options but there isn't much. Aim for the right facing corner at the summit. There is a nice place to build a trad anchor or you can break left and use the anchor of Watching You (5.7) to lower back down (full 60m lower).

Location

This is an upper deck climb. You can thrash up the gully approach but I recommend using one of the 5.7s below to get to the ledge. This climb starts in the corner up an often wet chimney.

Protection

Some natural gear and some run outs. It's a work in progress but no bolts yet.

Photos

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