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Routes in The Dark Passenger

Dark Corridor (L) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Escape (L) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Say Nothing T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Theater of Pain (L) T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Viewfinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watching Me T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Watching You (L) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Way Back (L), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Worlds Collide (L) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Lee Hansche 9/1/17
Page Views: 118 total · 10/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 1, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

What a great place for a sweet little technical piece like this. Around foliage time I can't think of a better place to be. As for the route itself plan on technical, crimpy, footcentric climbing. The holds in the crux are so small I planned on it clocking in around 5.12a but in action it didn't feel quite there. I don't care how hard it is, for a short route it is packed full of fun fun fun.

Start on an obvious rail underneath The first bolt. Move up and left to a crack/undercling. Climb this to the first horizontal crack. Protect. Move right and decipher the intricate hypercrimpy crux that takes you past another bolt and on to a second horizontal crack. protect again and pull one last tricky but delightful move that gets you to better holds, the anchors and top it out to stand on top of the world and take in the view.

The best approach is to climb View finder in one pitch past the belay tree and after clipping the first bolt on pitch 2 break left up an obvious corner that leads to the tree ledge below the mini crag.

Location

This route starts from a comfortable (no anchor needed) ledge above the Dark Passenger slab which is situated just left of the Dark Side area. It's basically a mini-crag all it's own and is the Namesake passenger itself.

Right now the easiest way to access the ledge and the mini-crag is to climb Say Nothing (5.5) to it's 2 bolt anchor. Bring up your second, easily step left on to the nice ledge and the base of Theater of Pain (5.12c) and Worlds Collide.

*Say Nothing could easily be "4th classed" by folks who are solid on slabs and don't mind doing easy unroped climbing. the 5.5 section is right off the deck then it's 5.3 to the ledge.

Protection

2 bolts and a couple finger sized cams. 2 ring bolt anchor.

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