Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Ernie Hansche and Lee Hansche
Page Views: 93 total · 9/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 6, 2018
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Another fun way to tackle the short headwall and enjoy the easy slab above for an amazing view. Each of the routes on this wall has it's own flavor. I found this to be a worthwhile addition. The only down side is that the beginning is the last route to dry after rain or winter. Perhaps now that it is clean it will speed the drying a bit.

Stand on the blocks at the base to get on to the wall. Easily clip the first bolt which keeps you from falling down the gully if you blow the low crux. Make thin balancy moves up to the overlap. Place a good piece under it and climb the low angle face above to the angled cracks. I found this section easier on the left but the right sucks you in and works as well. Just less secure IMO. (This might feel a little PG13 right now but I plan to add a bolt at some point now that I've climbed it a few times). Move right easily but delicately and carefully place a piece in the right hand crack. Move up to the 2nd bolt and pull the fun slab mantle on pockets and nubbins. Easy slab heads pretty straight up to the top.I find this to be the best section of the low angle slab of any of the routes in this section. Place a piece in the small feature about 15 feet up from the mantle move (Its tricky but I got an orange TCU in there well enough) if you want it or bomb past and clip 3 more bolts to the end.

Finish on the nice stance either by building an anchor in the bomber horizontal or placing a solid piece for directional and belaying from the Watching You anchors 15-20 feet to the right. 

Location

From the base of the Dark Corridor 5.6 chimney walk down hill about 30 feet until you see a couple of stone steps leading to a low bolt. There you are...

A 70m rope can barely get you down directly from the top of Way Back but move right to the bolted anchor of Watching You 5.7 to rap to the ledge (barely) with a 60m.

Protection

5 bolts to the nice stance with horizontal crack. Build an anchor or place a solid directional and move right 15-20 feet to the bolted anchor.

Photos

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