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Routes in The Ocean

Boat Ramp S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bosch Drills and Peckerheads S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Brain Cramp T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Learn to Swim S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Members Only S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sex on the Beach S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Subversive Behavior S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Unknown?
Page Views: 165 total, 2/month
Shared By: Michael Z. on Oct 10, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Just great fun and fine rock!

P1. 80, 5.11 Start up a short right facing corner to a stance just below the first bolt. A tricky step off the stance gains an undercling to layback crack up to another stance. From this stance follow bolts past a small overlap up a low angle but extremely thin face/slab ending in a big solution pocket at chains.I found a small mono pocket on the upper face, memorable!

P2. 90, 5.10+ From the anchor climb up an easy low angle slab past more solution pockets to the base of a short wall with a few bolts. After pulling over the wall continue up another 40 feet of unprotected 5.0 slab to a blueberry ledge and chains.

Both pitches can be linked with minimal rope drag.
Walk off or make two raps with a 60m rope.

Location

Below and south of The Beach. Approaching from the base several hundred feet right South America Flake are four bolted routes on a steep face this is the first one. It starts about ten feet left of "Sex On The Beach"

Protection

P1 7 bolts & #2 camalot to Chains. P2 4 bolts to Chains.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Tom, is this one of your routes? Oct 28, 2015
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
  5.11b/c
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
  5.11b/c
I'd recommend a med/lg cam at the horizontal crack. Oct 31, 2011
BALDY
Gilmanton, NH
  5.10+
BALDY   Gilmanton, NH
  5.10+
Someone told me that the name of this route is "Learning to Swim." It shares the same anchor as "Sex on the Beach." There is a new second pitch w/ a few bolts that goes at .10c. Oct 14, 2011
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
good route! I feel like I am closer to being a real member now that I have climbed this. Oct 10, 2011