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Routes in South America Wall

Border Crossing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fern Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flakes Alive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Good Book, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Horcrux, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Orphan Angry T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prophecy, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
South America Flake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Lee Hansche 6/4/15
Page Views: 1,378 total, 46/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 4, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

One of the most stunning features I have ever climbed which tops out to a picturesque New Hampshire mountain scene. The line was pointed out to me many years ago by a friend and I never forgot about it. A perfect corner with one black wall that is nearly featureless and dead vertical and one white wall that is steep and has decent holds but only just enough.

The route can be broken in to 3 sections:
-It starts with a big move to a sloping ledge and a mantle to a no hand rest followed by a tricky section past a big blob feature and in to another stem that can be no hands but you will want a hand on just in case ;)
-The business involves navigating the blankness that is the middle section of the corner. A smattering of micro holds, some that are just crystals, allow you to (just barely) connect the dots through to the last clip and the base of...
-The final boulder problem which is only a few moves long isn't too bad when working the route but turned out to be a redpoint crux for me. Indistinct crystaly holds that require precision and solid body tension get you to the thank god jug and the anchors. Top it out, sit on the cliff edge and take in the view. It's stunning.

The grade: I am proposing the grade based on climbing math (5.12a/b + v8 + v4/5 = 5.13c) haha and the amount of effort it took me (as many attempts as I've ever put in on anything over many days and lots of hanging around figuring things out). I'd love input from folks who have a good bit of experience on hard granite routes of this style.

The Name: Comes from Harry Potter. A Horcrux is a powerful object in which a Dark wizard or witch has hidden a fragment of his or her soul for the purpose of attaining immortality. I found this to be fitting on so many levels. I certainly left a piece of my soul in this route and I practice the projection of wizardry in climbing.
And if you want the funny version, the crux was kind of a whore haha.

Location

About 30ft to the left of Fern Crack look for the Amazingly beautiful corner... It's hard to miss.

Protection

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Unfortunately I don't have much else. I had some footage of me trying the moves on self belay but it's not helpful. I would however love to come up and play on it with you so I can get some photos on it and give you some beta.
Really psyched it's on your radar!! Aug 21, 2017
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Lee--

Do you have any videos/additional photos of you on the route? This route definitely has me intrigued and I'm considering trying it this Fall when I'm back in NH. I'm just curious to see more of what the climbing is like.

Thanks! Aug 17, 2017
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Badass! Also fantastic name! Jun 18, 2015
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
YEAH LEE!!!!! Jun 15, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Thanks all for your congrats.
Extra thanks to you Tom for your approval, I was hoping to run in to you out there and chat with you about it since you are "the man" out there. It is important for me to not step on the toes of my elders. I just tried my best to do it in good style.
I have the utmost reverence for this climb. Jun 5, 2015
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
 
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
 
Nice work Lee! That corner is as beautiful as any I've ever seen. My on and off TR attempts on it were futile and I knew I wasn't worthy. spied the bolts and red tag last spring and wondered who. 4 star climbing for sure! Jun 5, 2015
Joe M.    
Congrats, looks like an awesome route! Jun 5, 2015
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Congrats Lee for sending one of the "last great problems" in Waterville. Proud! Jun 5, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Nice work Lee! Good to see all that hard work and perseverance has paid off for you!! Jun 5, 2015
Congratz Lee what an undertaking! Jun 4, 2015