All Locations > New Hampshire > WM: Waterville Va… > Welch and Dickie… > Dickey Ledge > South America Wall
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
Routes in South America Wall
|Border Crossing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Fern Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Flakes Alive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Good Book, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Horcrux, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Little Orphan Angry T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Prophecy, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|South America Flake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft|
|FA:||Lee Hansche 6/4/15|
|Page Views:||1,378 total, 46/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Jun 4, 2015|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionOne of the most stunning features I have ever climbed which tops out to a picturesque New Hampshire mountain scene. The line was pointed out to me many years ago by a friend and I never forgot about it. A perfect corner with one black wall that is nearly featureless and dead vertical and one white wall that is steep and has decent holds but only just enough.
The route can be broken in to 3 sections:
-It starts with a big move to a sloping ledge and a mantle to a no hand rest followed by a tricky section past a big blob feature and in to another stem that can be no hands but you will want a hand on just in case ;)
-The business involves navigating the blankness that is the middle section of the corner. A smattering of micro holds, some that are just crystals, allow you to (just barely) connect the dots through to the last clip and the base of...
-The final boulder problem which is only a few moves long isn't too bad when working the route but turned out to be a redpoint crux for me. Indistinct crystaly holds that require precision and solid body tension get you to the thank god jug and the anchors. Top it out, sit on the cliff edge and take in the view. It's stunning.
The grade: I am proposing the grade based on climbing math (5.12a/b + v8 + v4/5 = 5.13c) haha and the amount of effort it took me (as many attempts as I've ever put in on anything over many days and lots of hanging around figuring things out). I'd love input from folks who have a good bit of experience on hard granite routes of this style.
The Name: Comes from Harry Potter. A Horcrux is a powerful object in which a Dark wizard or witch has hidden a fragment of his or her soul for the purpose of attaining immortality. I found this to be fitting on so many levels. I certainly left a piece of my soul in this route and I practice the projection of wizardry in climbing.
And if you want the funny version, the crux was kind of a whore haha.