Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Dark Side

Butt Scum T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dark Mark, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dark Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark and Difficult Times S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Half Stack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hermits Hideout T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lurking Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lurking in the Bushes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mojo Risin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Resident Evil T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Short Stack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stack, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jay Lena 2005
Page Views: 214 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tom Bowker on Nov 2, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A must do route. Cracks, a chimney and some thin face climbing to anchor. Start below and right of the giant blocks and climb past 2 bolts into the chimney. Exit right and pumpy climbing leads past bolts and horizontal cracks to a cresendo finish.
A variation is to climb right before the chimney to a hand crack that rejoins the regular route.

Location

50 ft right of "The Stack" below a prominent chimney formed by the giant blocks

Protection

Bolts and standard rack.
ndchu
  5.10c
ndchu  
  5.10c
As of today, there is a small wasp next in the hand jam to the left of the second bolt after exiting the chimney. You can do the move to the right of the bolt (a bit long of a move) to avoid using this hold. If you use the edge of the hold, the wasps seem fine. If you stuff your hand in there, they buzz angrily. Aug 27, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Amazing movement! That crux sequence is as good as it gets, and the thin face climbing up top with all that exposure is unforgettable.

Gear beta:
This is basically a sport climb, with only 2 or 3 required pieces of gear which are very easy to place from good stances and are bomber. Grab a BD #3 or #2, #0.3, and #1 (in the order that they are used) or equivalent sizes and a bunch of quickdraws and go for it!

If you place the big cam to protect the move up into the chimney, you should reach down and back-clean it after clipping the bolt. Aug 22, 2017
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.10+
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.10+
I cannot even begin to say how incredible this route is. It has been one of the most spectacular and full value pitches of my life. It definitely clocks in at 5.10++, all I can say really is DO THIS ROUTE. Oct 26, 2015