Elevation: 1,739 ft
GPS: 43.911, -71.603 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,690 total · 17/month
Shared By: Michael Z. on Oct 26, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

Private Property - Permission to climb here is questionable.
A raw, wild and untamed cliff several hundred feet tall. Cone Head Mt. is located on private property so if you do visit the area it is best to be respectful and ask permission. A strong leave no trace ethic is imperative. Many of the routes here are less desirable by today's standards but if the "outback" experience is what you are looking for this place is for you. The gear is often questionable where it can be found and loose rock is the norm. It is truly a wild crag with beautiful views.

From Bradley White - "All the routes on Cone Head ledges have poor protection and there are no bolts. There is always dirt, lichen and mossy wet places on any the climbs except the central left side buttress. Cone Head is all that an outback rock climb should be. Virgin rock and great views. A lightly added assortment of gear on the climbers rack including some medium sized friends will get a climber anywhere up Cone Head ledges but pitons don’t work. All the cracks are too shallow for pins.

Wherever the climber on Cone Head finishes the climb there will be in the midst of it, where naturally the rock and the woods unite into being one environment, the living rock with dirt, lichen, plants and sometimes even algae organisms on and in the cracks of it. On Cone head’s summit don’t go down fast or fall off somewhere while walking down off of it. The summit environment is often wet, dirty and with loose footing. Cone Head Ledges or anywhere else for that matter the walking off at top of the cliff is sometimes more difficult than the actually rock climbing was."

Getting There

Take Exit 28 off I 93 and head east on route 49 towards Waterville Valley. After about 5 miles turn left onto Upper Mad River Rd then turn right onto Osiris Rd. Continue up Osiris Rd. bearing right until it ends at a cul-de-sac. Parking can be difficult if you want to get off the road.

To reach the base of the cliff head diagonally right and up from the cul-de-sac for about ten minutes until the cliff is visible.

From Bradley White - ".. leave a large note on your car inside the windshield that you are rock climbers going to Conehead and when you will return. Do not camp or you will be arrested. The owner used to climb. He's okay with rock climbing happening but is very protective of his land, so leave no trace of you being there. The house on the left at the top of the hill is his. If the hour is reasonable you can check in with him first. I have permission but I don't know how far his invitation to the crag being climbed is acceptable. So far I'm the only person that goes here"

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