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Elevation: 1,558 ft 475 m
GPS: 43.99316, -71.65858
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 32,497 total · 879/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Jun 29, 2021
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
Warning Access Issue: Merriam Woods is conservation land, managed by the Town of Woodstock. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Climbers have been searching for the next Main Cliff, in reference to Rumney's showpiece crag with a seemingly endless supply of routes. There have been rumors of a cliff like that existing in the hills of Waterville, but all efforts to find it were thwarted by gargantuan approaches and/or loose and scary rock. Little did we know, it was hiding right under our noses, literally in sight of the highway. Climbers are a myopic bunch, and it took the right group of people with the right amount of free time/boredom (thanks pandemic!) to realize the potential.

This Main Cliff has many of the same characteristics of Rumney's Main Cliff: it's a complex cliff, with ledges and terraces bisecting it, allowing routes of all different lengths and characters. The rock is orange schist or quartzite or whatever. It basically looks a lot like the more famous Main Cliff. This Main Cliff, however, has just been sparingly developed. Even so, it offers quality climbing from 5.7 to 5.13, all well-bolted with stainless glue-ins. Whether you're looking for punchy bouldery lines, or soaring exposed face routes, this is the place. A couple days here, and you might start saying that this, in fact, is the true Main Cliff, and that other cliff is just...so...over.

Getting There Suggest change

You can see the roof at the top of the cliff from both 93 and Tripoli Road. Park at the gate, follow the stream trail along the base of the hill, and when you get to the boulderfield, follow a trail uphill passing under Winter Wall. Then head up a wide gully climber's left of Winter Wall to the base of the cliff. 15 minutes.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Cliff Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 91
Indigenous Peoples' Day Memorial…
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 57
Stealing Time
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
Journey to the Crystal Cave
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 53
Space Donkey
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 75
Moonstripe
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 54
Half Shell Heros
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 25
Living Green
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
Mixie's Route
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Flicker
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 14
Golden Child
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 37
Golden Stripe
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 29
The Golden Ratio
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
October Surprise
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Even Flow
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
Astral Weeks
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Indigenous Peoples' Day Mem… Stolen Buttress - Mai…
 91
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Stealing Time Stolen Buttress - Mai…
 57
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Journey to the Crystal Cave Crystal Cave
 15
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Space Donkey Stolen Buttress - Mai…
 53
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Moonstripe Stolen Buttress - Mai…
 75
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Half Shell Heros Jeremy's Wall - Main…
 54
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Living Green Jeremy's Wall - Main…
 25
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Mixie's Route Jeremy's Wall - Main…
 13
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Flicker Stolen Buttress - Mai…
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Golden Child Jeremy's Wall - Main…
 14
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Golden Stripe Stolen Buttress - Mai…
 37
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Golden Ratio Jeremy's Wall - Main…
 29
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
October Surprise Stolen Buttress - Mai…
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Even Flow Jeremy's Wall - Main…
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Astral Weeks Jeremy's Wall - Main…
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Cliff Area »

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