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Golden Child
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 16
votes
Routes in Jeremy's Wall - Main Cliff upper right
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Astral Weeks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Devil Inside S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Electric Beaver S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Electric Beaver Super Quest, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Even Flow S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Golden Child S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Golden Ratio, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Half Shell Heros S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Living Green S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mixie's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Notorious S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Stranger Things S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Telekinesis S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Wicked, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Lee Hansche |
| Page Views: | 1,776 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on May 24, 2021 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: Merriam Woods is conservation land, managed by the Town of Woodstock.
Details
Description
Originally the majority of this route was just the beginning of the epic, Golden Ratio. That is still the best way to utilize this wall. However, incase an exposed traverse on a bottomless feature 200 feet off the deck isn't your thing I added the all slab finish and this Golden Child was born.
Make sure your belayer is anchored on the ledge. Traverse out below the climb. tackle a pretty chill overlap. Climb very easy but interestingly featured rock for about 4-5 bolts where the wall steepens noticeably. Everything you need is there but dang, every section from here up offers a challenge.
Most of the bolts have fixed draws for use in the Golden Ratio, bring a couple if you are doing this route as they aren't currently fixed all the way to the top.
Location
If you walk the ledge all the way left you will walk right out onto a slab. Don't slip, it's a long way down. But as you get to this zone and you look up you will see the big bad roof above. This route climbs the orange slab staying left of the crack and corner up to an anchor right at the roof.
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