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Jeremy's Wall - Main Cliff upper right Rock Climbing
Routes in Jeremy's Wall - Main Cliff upper right
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Astral Weeks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Devil Inside S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Electric Beaver S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Electric Beaver Super Quest, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Even Flow S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Golden Child S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Golden Ratio, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Half Shell Heros S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Living Green S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mixie's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Notorious S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Stranger Things S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Telekinesis S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Wicked, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
| Elevation: | 1,599 ft | 487 m |
| GPS: |
43.99321, -71.65832 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 16,453 total · 297/month | |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on May 24, 2021 | |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: Merriam Woods is conservation land, managed by the Town of Woodstock.
Details
Description
This is by all measures one of the showcase cliffs of Russell Crags. It honestly is one of the most stacked sport crags in NH outside of Rumney. Side by side mostly100 foot climbs with fantastic movement and a commanding view of the surrounding mountains. Right now the grades range from 5.11 to 5.13, they get you into the steeps and also test your footwork on lower angle terrain, often on the same climb. To name a few routes that are not to be missed The Golden Ratio 5.12a/b (Exposure!), Half Shell Heros 5.11a (Fantastic technical face climbing) and Even Flow 5.12d (hard, varied and well... flowy). But honestly it's so hard to choose just a handful of routes. Climb as many as you can!
I would be shocked if this area doesn't become very popular. The approach is about as committing as getting to Waimea at Rumney. Routes were bolted with stick clips in mind so make smart choices. There is often a clip up on the ledge for general use.
Historical note: This cliff has seen climbing in the past. We have found numerous pieces of old rusted gear showing that we are not the first to explore this breath taking piece of rock. Unsurprising since you can see it from the highway! If anyone has solid historical info about these or other climbs on the hill please let us know.
Getting There
There are two main gullies that access most of the climbing at Russell. This area is at the top of the left one "Main Cliff Gully". Hiking the Stream Trail along the base of the hill from the gate parking area, you will get to a notably crooked tree. Turn toward the hill, hike past a cairn on a boulder and pick up yellow flagging on trees. Follow this trail up into the gully proper. You will see the Winter wall on your right. Continue up the gully on switchbacks and eventually some fixed ropes on the steeper part of the trail. The first rock you will get to is a steep lower section of Main Cliff. Head up and right from here past one more fixed rope. To your right you will see an amazing steep line that looks like a mini Predator. To your left is Jeremy's wall. Careful scrambling up and down from the main ledge as a fall would be sketchy. Climbs in this area span from the far left ledge which gets you under the big bad roof all the way across and wrapping around to the right where you don't need to get up on the ledge.
Classic Climbing Routes at Jeremy's Wall - Main Cliff upper right
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