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October Surprise
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 20
votes
Routes in The Stolen Buttress - Main Cliff Left
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Fight the Power S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Flicker S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Golden Stripe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Indigenous Peoples' Day Memorial Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Moonstripe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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October Surprise S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Space Donkey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stealing Time S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 43.99317, -71.65888 |
| FA: | Knower, October, 2020 |
| Page Views: | 1,293 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Jun 27, 2021 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: Merriam Woods is conservation land, managed by the Town of Woodstock.
Details
Description
This climbs the face/arete left of Golden Stripe. It's a bit shorter, a bit less soaring, and just a titch harder than its neighbor to the right. But it's still a great outing. Climb the slab, then work up the left side of the face, using a crack to a good rest. Launch into a fingery crux and then follow good holds top to a topout on a ledge. This route shares anchors with Flicker (5.11c) to the left.
This is so named because I received a surprise during what I thought would be the first ascent. After negotiating the difficulties, I reached up to a brick-sized hold on the arete, thinking that I had completed the FA of a line I had been spying for a while. Before I knew it, the brick was flying through the air along with me. I bounced on the end of the rope and the brick crashed down the gully below my belayer. It just goes to show--Russell schist is not to be taken for granite!
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