Type: Sport, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Jay Knower, 2020
Page Views: 1,803 total · 49/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Jun 27, 2021
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Merriam Woods is conservation land, managed by the Town of Woodstock. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is arguably the best route at Russell (if I do say so myself), and potentially one of the best sport routes around. It's airy and engaging, and bolted so you're actually on lead. It climbs a bit more like a limestone route than a schist one. As you work your way up the technical moves, following the pronounced golden stripe up the rock, you just feel like a hero.  

Start up a slab past a couple bolts (long runners useful here) until you can gain a stance before the main upper wall. Climb up, through an undercling crux, and work your way up the wall, maybe moving left, maybe moving right, but generally following amazing holds up the gold rock. At the top, lower off pigtails. 

Location Suggest change

Rightmost route on the Stolen Buttress

Protection Suggest change

Bolts to LO. A few long runners are helpful on the slab bolts.