Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - Summer Rock Routes Rock Climbing

An internet review of BSP  climbing rules clearly state that “bolt intensive routes are not permitted”, and that “all gear must be removed except in emergency situations”  ( The two quotes come from two slightly different documents on the Katahdin / Baxter State Park website.) 

When Percival Baxter donated this land to the people of Maine he specifically wished it to remain wild.  While I could not find anything in writing specifically banning any and all bolts, except for the above "all gear must be removed", which certainly seems to cover it! Do not place bolts.

 Most importantly the climbing culture of the area is for a wilderness experience. "Locals" have climbed on these crags for many decades, both in summer and winter.  Most believe in keeping the wilderness experience and some don't even "report" their routes in the Ranger's Cabin Logbook, ( which has been the "standard method of reporting routes...that has worked for decades." ) so there's a excellent chance that blank looking section of rock or that tongue of ice has been climbed before. Recently this MtnPrjct Admin. received a communication from a well-known and respected climber with over 100 trips to Katahdin in winter and summer mentioning several routes which were first climbed decades ago.  This information has been added where appropriate.  

Please respect the feeling of wilderness and help keep this wonderfully alpine area open for climbing. 

Thanks !

R. Hall, Admin, Maine