Type: Trad, Ice, 1000 ft (303 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Marc Chauvin and Peter Cole - March 1980
Page Views: 1,871 total · 46/month
Shared By: Peter Cole on Jul 16, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details
Access Issue: Special rules apply for winter camping & climbing in Baxter State Park and on Mt Katahdin Details


After the long low angle approach the upper part of the face steepens considerably. Still doable without roping up but eventually the gully chokes and the roped climbing begins. One moderate pitch leads to the crux headwall. Marc did a fine job on this pitch as the ice was thin and thus the pro not that great. After that, one more technical pitch gets you into the upper gully where 2-3 rope lengths of mellow ground leads to the ridge not far from the summit cairn. A worthwhile route that is not always in shape.


The far right side of the South Basin headwall is the most monolithic section of rock in the basin. A straightforward approach over neve and iced up slabs provides easy access to this route which splits the aforementioned headwall via clearly defined gully system.


Typical alpine rack: screws, couple of wires and a few thin pins