All Locations > Maine > -Clifton Crags > Eagle Bluff

Wheaties

Name: Wheaties
Rating: 3.4

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Eagle Bluff

L › R R › L A › Z

	38 and Drug Free TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Airline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	All Seriousness Aside S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Alley Fox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Alleyway T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Amber Waves of Grain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Another Bolted Face Climb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Apple Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Attitude Adjuster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bivy Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Blaze of Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Bloody Phalanges S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Cereal Killer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Chinese Water Torture Direct S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Climb Out or Ground Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
	Cloacal Kiss WI4 M5
	Corner Line T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Crankcase T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crankenstein S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Crossover Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Delirious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
	Dirty Meat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Down Under S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Eagle Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Eagle's Gift, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Easy Stuff T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Eavesy Stuff T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Element 115 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Entrance Exam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Flake to Nowhere T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Foxy Lady T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Happy Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hard Stuff T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Help T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Highlander S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jack the Dripper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Longitudinal Wave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Lucky Streak S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Maine Bound Memorial Route T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
	No Rest for the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Only Frontier, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Pried and Joy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Punks in the Gunks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Rainy Day Deliverance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Reckless Abandon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Root of Choice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Route Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sales Pitch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Scrappy Face S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Seamless TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Short Stuff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Slice of the Gunks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Squeezed In TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Standard Route AKA Open Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Stevie's Spanking S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Talon Scout T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Talus Scout S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Tax Is Too Steep, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Texas Two Step T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Upside down staircase T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Walk on the Mild Side S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Wave Guide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	What's In a Name? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Wheaties S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Where Eagles Dare T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Witch Wonder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA:	John Espesito 1977
Page Views:	4,871 total · 28/month
Shared By:	Matthew Swartz on Apr 21, 2009
Admins:	BDalhaus, Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Another classic! Layback an obvious left-facing flake to a face passing several bolts to ledge. Belay here or continue forty feet to a bolt anchor. The original second pitch (Breakfast of Champions, 5.9+) is now easily combined with the lower section by continuing straight up the face past bolts to a new anchor below the room on the Cross-over ledge. The original route had only one bolt on the face above the initial flake.