Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: John Espesito 1977
Page Views: 2,872 total · 24/month
Shared By: Matt Swartz on Apr 21, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

Another classic! Layback an obvious left-facing flake to a face passing several bolts to ledge. Belay here or continue forty feet to a bolt anchor. The original second pitch (Breakfast of Champions, 5.9+) is now easily combined with the lower section by continuing straight up the face past bolts to a new anchor below the room on the Cross-over ledge. The original route had only one bolt on the face above the initial flake.

Location

Right of Reckless Abandon.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Falcon guide gives it 10c....which is surely more honest than a incredibly sandbagged 5.9. Aug 10, 2011
Jack Lynch
Charlottesville, VA
 
Jack Lynch   Charlottesville, VA
 
Would definitely agree with Costigan, most stout 5.9 I've ever climbed Mar 11, 2016
Arlo Cristofaro
Bar Harbor, Maine & Northfi…
Arlo Cristofaro   Bar Harbor, Maine & Northfi…
Going into this climb expecting a 5.9 was hilarious. The beginning moves are beautiful layback, but higher up is some less protected slabs that give a mean, cheese-grater-like stare... I wouldn't wanna whip up there, no siree. .10c seems reasonable. Got mi old ticker thumpin' good–whatta route! Sep 25, 2016