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Routes in Eagle Bluff

38 and Drug Free TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Airline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All Seriousness Aside S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Alleyway T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Amber Waves of Grain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Another Bolted Face Climb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Apple Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Attitude Adjuster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bivy Route S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Blaze of Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bloody Phalanges S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture Direct S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb Out or Ground Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Corner Line T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crankcase T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crankenstein S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Delirious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Dirty Meat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Down Under S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle's Gift, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Stuff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eavesy Stuff T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Element 115 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Entrance Exam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake to Nowhere T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Stuff T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Highlander S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jack the Dripper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Longitudinal Wave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maine Bound Memorial Route T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
No Rest for the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only Frontier, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ooze, The WI4 M5
Pried and Joy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Punks in the Gunks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rainy Day Deliverance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reckless Abandon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Root of Choice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sales Pitch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrappy Face S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seamless TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Short Stuff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Slice of the Gunks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeezed In TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stevie's Spanking S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talus Scout S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tax Is Too Steep, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Texas Two Step T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Upside down staircase T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walk on the Mild Side S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wave Guide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
What's In a Name? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wheaties S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Where Eagles Dare T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Witch Wonder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: John Espesito 1977
Page Views: 2,805 total · 24/month
Shared By: Matt Swartz on Apr 21, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Another classic! Layback an obvious left-facing flake to a face passing several bolts to ledge. Belay here or continue forty feet to a bolt anchor. The original second pitch (Breakfast of Champions, 5.9+) is now easily combined with the lower section by continuing straight up the face past bolts to a new anchor below the room on the Cross-over ledge. The original route had only one bolt on the face above the initial flake.

Location

Right of Reckless Abandon.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Falcon guide gives it 10c....which is surely more honest than a incredibly sandbagged 5.9. Aug 10, 2011
Jack Lynch
Charlottesville, VA
 
Jack Lynch   Charlottesville, VA
 
Would definitely agree with Costigan, most stout 5.9 I've ever climbed Mar 11, 2016
Arlo Cristofaro
Bar Harbor, Maine & Northfi…
Arlo Cristofaro   Bar Harbor, Maine & Northfi…
Going into this climb expecting a 5.9 was hilarious. The beginning moves are beautiful layback, but higher up is some less protected slabs that give a mean, cheese-grater-like stare... I wouldn't wanna whip up there, no siree. .10c seems reasonable. Got mi old ticker thumpin' good–whatta route! Sep 25, 2016

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