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Routes in Eagle Bluff

38 and Drug Free TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
All Seriousness Aside S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Alleyway T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Amber Waves of Grain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Another Bolted Face Climb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Apple Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Attitude Adjuster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bivy Route S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Blaze of Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bloody Phalanges S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture Direct S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb Out or Ground Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Corner Line T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crankcase T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delirious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Dirty Meat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Down Under S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle's Gift, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Stuff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eavesy Stuff T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Element 115 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Entrance Exam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake to Nowhere T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Stuff T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Highlander S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jack the Dripper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Longitudinal Wave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maine Bound Memorial Route T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
No Rest for the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only Frontier, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pried and Joy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Punks in the Gunks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rainy Day Deliverance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reckless Abandon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Root of Choice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scrappy Face S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seamless TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Short Stuff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Slice of the Gunks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeezed In TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stevie's Spanking S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talus Scout S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tax Is Too Steep, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Texas Two Step T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Upside down staircase T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walk on the Mild Side S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wave Guide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
What's In a Name? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wheaties S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Where Eagles Dare T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Witch Wonder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:

Description

Eagle Bluff is CLiftons most popular and well known climbing area with over 130 routes. Climbers of all kind will find enjoyable lines, with the majority of the routes ranging from 5.9-5.11 sport.
Your help needed to keep this crag open! Details

Getting There

From the intersection of route 9 and 180, drive 2.6 miles south on route 180. Just after a gated gravel road on the left, look for a small dirt pullout and the approach trail.

55 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Aly I cant recommend camping there at this time. On Saturday September 19th there will be a fundraiser BBQ to help finish protecting the bluff. This would be a great place to ask folks if its OK. Suggested donations are $10 and the link can be found...

Clifton Climbers Alliance

With any luck camping can become a part of the area in the years to come! For now you can always check out the Parks Pond Campground which is about a 10-15 minute drive from Eagles.

Parks Pond Campground Sep 14, 2015
I live about 4 hours from Eagle Bluff, but I make day long trips out there all the time, I'm looking to stay out there for a longer period of time, but I've never heard of anyone camping out there before, is it alright to set up camp there, or is there a better place near by? Aug 30, 2015
TJHussey
Newburgh, ME
TJHussey   Newburgh, ME
I was climbing next to a Clifton Climber's Alliance board member last week who said the land purchase was just made recently-- it will allow public access & climbing to continue at Eagle Bluff! Sep 29, 2014
nealg  
Definitely open. Just spent a day there last week after an 18 year hiatus. Was shocked how much lichen was on many of the classics.

Why is the place getting so little traffic? It is my favorite place in ME. Aug 13, 2014
maineah
Maine
maineah   Maine
As far as I know, permanent access is being negotiated and Eagle's is open for now Jun 25, 2014
nealg  
Anyone know the current access status of Eagle Bluff in Clifton? Climbed there 15+ years ago and was returning for a Maine trip.

Open or closed?

thx! Jun 16, 2014
Matty Zane
Freedom
Matty Zane   Freedom
kintera.org/site/c.tmL5KhNW…

Eagle bluff is currently closed due to access issues. Please follow this link and donate as much as you can to help save this amazing area. Feb 10, 2014
Scott Brown
Bellingham
Scott Brown   Bellingham
10-15 minutes Oct 29, 2012
Travis Dustin
Hollis, NH
Travis Dustin   Hollis, NH
What is the approach like? Jul 6, 2012

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