Elevation: 677 ft
GPS: 44.79328, -68.49641
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 87,039 total · 477/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Oct 5, 2008 · Updates
Admins: BDalhaus, Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Welcome to Eagle Bluff

Looking up from the Wheaties ledge.

Eagle Bluff is Clifton's most popular and well-known climbing area with over 130 sport and trad routes as well as a collection of boulders that hold over five dozen problems. Climbers of all kinds will find enjoyable lines. Trad cracks? Check. Hyper-technical slabs? Check. Overhanging sport climbs? Check. Multipitch? Check. Routes range from 5.easy to 5.12d with a few projects still waiting for an ascent. The boulder problems are mostly in the V0-V3 range, but there are a few unfinished lines and a handful of V5-V6s.

Access is secured and most of the anchors are brand new thanks to the efforts of the CCA.

There are now 3 signed parking lots!

North Lot - Park here to have quick access to the Practice Wall and the left end of Eagle Bluff. This is also the best way to access the summit. 10 minutes to the climbing.

Overflow Lot - Located in the middle. The crowds are non-existent, so you may never have to park here.
​​​​
South Lot
- Park here to walk into the boulders or to access the middle or right end of Eagle Bluff. Allow 8 minutes to the boulders or 12-15 to the cliffs.

Finishing up Eagle Direct

Getting There

From the intersection of route 9 and 180, drive 2.6 miles south on route 180. The northern parking area will be on the left after about 2.5 miles, followed by the overflow parking and finally the southern parking area.  If you reach Springy Pond Road you are in the vicinity of the parking areas but missed them all, which are back towards Route 9.

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 29
Easy Stuff
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Slice of the Gunks
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Witch Wonder
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
Upside down staircase
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
Walk on the Mild Side
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
Happy Face
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 46
Bivy Route
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
Crankcase
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 32
The Eagle's Gift
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 36
Highlander
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 56
Wheaties
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 14
Entrance Exam
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
All Seriousness Aside
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 21
Eagle Direct
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
Sales Pitch
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Easy Stuff
 29
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Slice of the Gunks
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Witch Wonder
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Upside down staircase
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Walk on the Mild Side
 26
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Happy Face
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bivy Route
 46
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Crankcase
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Eagle's Gift
 32
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Highlander
 36
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Wheaties
 56
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Entrance Exam
 14
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
All Seriousness Aside
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Eagle Direct
 21
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Sales Pitch
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Eagle Bluff »

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