Elevation: 677 ft
GPS: 44.793, -68.496 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 36,603 total · 279/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Oct 5, 2008 with improvements by BradWilson
Admins: BDalhaus, Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Welcome to Eagle Bluff

Looking up from the Wheaties ledge.

Eagle Bluff is Clifton's most popular and well-known climbing area with over 130 sport and trad routes as well as a collection of boulders that hold over five dozen problems. Climbers of all kinds will find enjoyable lines. Trad cracks? Check. Hyper-technical slabs? Check. Overhanging sport climbs? Check. Multipitch? Check. Routes range from 5.easy to 5.12d with a few projects still waiting for an ascent. The boulder problems are mostly in the V0-V3 range, but there are a few unfinished lines and a handful of V5-V6s.

Access is secured and most of the anchors are brand new thanks to the efforts of the CCA.

There are now 3 signed parking lots!

North Lot - Park here to have quick access to the Practice Wall and the left end of Eagle Bluff. This is also the best way to access the summit. 10 minutes to the climbing.

Overflow Lot - Located in the middle. The crowds are non-existent, so you may never have to park here.
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South Lot
- Park here to walk into the boulders or to access the middle or right end of Eagle Bluff. Allow 8 minutes to the boulders or 12-15 to the cliffs.

Finishing up Eagle Direct

Getting There

From the intersection of route 9 and 180, drive 2.6 miles south on route 180. The northern parking area will be on the left after about 2.5 miles, followed by the overflow parking and finally the southern parking area.  If you reach Springy Pond Road you are in the vicinity of the parking areas but missed them all, which are back towards Route 9.

60 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Slice of the Gunks
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Witch Wonder
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Walk on the Mild Side
Sport 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 27
Bivy Route
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Happy Face
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Crankcase
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 15
The Eagle's Gift
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 31
Wheaties
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 24
Highlander
Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Where Eagles Dare
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
All Seriousness Aside
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Chinese Water Torture Direct
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Entrance Exam
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Blaze of Glory
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
Eagle Direct
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slice of the Gunks
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Witch Wonder
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Walk on the Mild Side
 19
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Bivy Route
 27
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Happy Face
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Crankcase
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Eagle's Gift
 15
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Wheaties
 31
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Highlander
 24
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Where Eagles Dare
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
All Seriousness Aside
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Chinese Water Torture Direct
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Entrance Exam
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Blaze of Glory
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Eagle Direct
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Eagle Bluff »

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