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Elevation: 677 ft 206 m
GPS: 44.79328, -68.49641
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 89,343 total · 416/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Oct 5, 2008 · Updates
Admins: BDalhaus, Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca

Welcome to Eagle Bluff Suggest change

NOTE Sub-Areas Entrance Wall to Right End are organized Left > Right R Hall , Admin

Eagle Bluff is maintained for climbing by the Clifton Climber's Alliance. When the cliff was for sale and access was in peril, climbers banded together to purchase the property and make sure the land was publicly accessible. Since 2014, the CCA has been maintaining approach trails, replacing old anchors and bolts, cleaning boulders, publishing the Eagle Bluff guidebook, putting up new routes, and continuing to make sure the property stays accessible to local and visiting climbers. The CCA continues to negotiate for permanent access to the other climbing resources in the Central Maine area. 

The best way to support the CCA is to sign up for a membership or donating. Funds go towards purchasing hardware and maintaining the property. You can do so on the CCA website: https://www.cliftonclimbersalliance.org/join

Please treat the land with respect, and kindle no fires. 

Eagle Bluff is Clifton's most popular and well-known climbing area with over 130 sport and trad routes as well as a collection of boulders that hold over five dozen problems. Climbers of all kinds will find enjoyable lines. Trad cracks? Check. Hyper-technical slabs? Check. Overhanging sport climbs? Check. Multipitch? Check. Routes range from 5.easy to 5.12d with a few projects still waiting for an ascent. The boulder problems range from V0 to V8 scattered across the property.

Parking: 

North Lot - Park here to have quick access to the Practice Wall and the left end of Eagle Bluff. This is also the best way to access the summit. If this parking is full, please park at the Main Lot. Do not park across thee street or along the road. 10 minutes to the climbing.

Main Lot - Located between the North and South lots. This is a large gravel parking area that can accommodate multiple vehicles if the North lot is full, The large trail off this lot connects to the North lot trail and leads to the practice wall/ summit trails. 10 minute approach, most room for vehicles. Easy access to any part of the cliff, especially the practice wall and Main face/ roofs area.

South Lot - Park here to walk into the south trail boulders or to access the middle or right end of Eagle Bluff. Allow 8 minutes to the boulders or 12-15 to the cliffs.

Getting There Suggest change

From the intersection of route 9 and 180, drive 2.6 miles south on route 180. The northern parking area will be on the left after about 2.5 miles, followed by the main parking and finally the southern parking area. If you reach Springy Pond Road you are in the vicinity of the parking areas but missed them all, which are back towards Route 9.

Please be sure to park in the designated lots, not along the road. 

117 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 34
Easy Stuff
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
Slice of the Gunks
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Witch Wonder
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 33
Upside down staircase
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
Walk on the Mild Side
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 37
Happy Face
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 61
Bivy Route
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 37
Crankcase
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 41
The Eagle's Gift
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 43
Highlander
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 69
Wheaties
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 16
Entrance Exam
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 14
Blaze of Glory
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 29
Eagle Direct
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 16
All Seriousness Aside
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Easy Stuff 02. Practice Wall Left
 34
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Slice of the Gunks 07. Edges & Ledges Area
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Witch Wonder 05. The Roofs
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Upside down staircase 03. Practice Wall Right
 33
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Walk on the Mild Side 04. Main Face
 31
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Happy Face 02. Practice Wall Left
 37
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bivy Route 05. The Roofs
 61
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Crankcase 03. Practice Wall Right
 37
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Eagle's Gift 05. The Roofs
 41
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Highlander 05. The Roofs
 43
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Wheaties 04. Main Face
 69
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Entrance Exam 01. Entrance Wall
 16
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Blaze of Glory 06. Power Wall
 14
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Eagle Direct 04. Main Face
 29
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
All Seriousness Aside 04. Main Face
 16
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Eagle Bluff »

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