Eagle Bluff Rock Climbing
Routes in Eagle Bluff
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38 and Drug Free TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Airline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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All Seriousness Aside S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Alley Fox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Alleyway T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Amber Waves of Grain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Another Bolted Face Climb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Apple Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Attitude Adjuster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bivy Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blaze of Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bloody Phalanges S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cereal Killer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chinese Water Torture Direct S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Climb Out or Ground Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Cloacal Kiss WI4 M5 |
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Corner Line T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Crankcase T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crankenstein S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crossover Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Delirious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Dirty Meat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Down Under S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Eagle Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eagle's Gift, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easy Stuff T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Eavesy Stuff T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Element 115 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Entrance Exam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flake to Nowhere T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Foxy Lady T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Happy Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hard Stuff T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Help T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Highlander S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jack the Dripper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Longitudinal Wave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lucky Streak S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Maine Bound Memorial Route T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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No Rest for the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Only Frontier, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pried and Joy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Punks in the Gunks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rainy Day Deliverance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reckless Abandon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Root of Choice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Route Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sales Pitch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Scrappy Face S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Seamless TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Short Stuff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Slice of the Gunks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Squeezed In TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Standard Route AKA Open Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Stevie's Spanking S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Talon Scout T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Talus Scout S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tax Is Too Steep, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Texas Two Step T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Upside down staircase T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Walk on the Mild Side S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wave Guide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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What's In a Name? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wheaties S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Where Eagles Dare T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Witch Wonder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Unsorted Routes: |
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Elevation: | 677 ft |
GPS: |
44.79328, -68.49641 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 87,039 total · 477/month |
Shared By: | Matty Zane on Oct 5, 2008 · Updates |
Admins: | BDalhaus, Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Welcome to Eagle Bluff
Looking up from the Wheaties ledge.
Eagle Bluff is Clifton's most popular and well-known climbing area with over 130 sport and trad routes as well as a collection of boulders that hold over five dozen problems. Climbers of all kinds will find enjoyable lines. Trad cracks? Check. Hyper-technical slabs? Check. Overhanging sport climbs? Check. Multipitch? Check. Routes range from 5.easy to 5.12d with a few projects still waiting for an ascent. The boulder problems are mostly in the V0-V3 range, but there are a few unfinished lines and a handful of V5-V6s.
Access is secured and most of the anchors are brand new thanks to the efforts of the CCA.
There are now 3 signed parking lots!
North Lot - Park here to have quick access to the Practice Wall and the left end of Eagle Bluff. This is also the best way to access the summit. 10 minutes to the climbing.
Overflow Lot - Located in the middle. The crowds are non-existent, so you may never have to park here.
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South Lot - Park here to walk into the boulders or to access the middle or right end of Eagle Bluff. Allow 8 minutes to the boulders or 12-15 to the cliffs.
Finishing up Eagle Direct
Eagle Bluff is Clifton's most popular and well-known climbing area with over 130 sport and trad routes as well as a collection of boulders that hold over five dozen problems. Climbers of all kinds will find enjoyable lines. Trad cracks? Check. Hyper-technical slabs? Check. Overhanging sport climbs? Check. Multipitch? Check. Routes range from 5.easy to 5.12d with a few projects still waiting for an ascent. The boulder problems are mostly in the V0-V3 range, but there are a few unfinished lines and a handful of V5-V6s.
Access is secured and most of the anchors are brand new thanks to the efforts of the CCA.
There are now 3 signed parking lots!
North Lot - Park here to have quick access to the Practice Wall and the left end of Eagle Bluff. This is also the best way to access the summit. 10 minutes to the climbing.
Overflow Lot - Located in the middle. The crowds are non-existent, so you may never have to park here.
​​​​
South Lot - Park here to walk into the boulders or to access the middle or right end of Eagle Bluff. Allow 8 minutes to the boulders or 12-15 to the cliffs.
Finishing up Eagle Direct
Getting There
From the intersection of route 9 and 180, drive 2.6 miles south on route 180. The northern parking area will be on the left after about 2.5 miles, followed by the overflow parking and finally the southern parking area. If you reach Springy Pond Road you are in the vicinity of the parking areas but missed them all, which are back towards Route 9.
Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Bluff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
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● Easy Stuff |
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5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR | ||
● Slice of the Gunks |
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5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
● Witch Wonder |
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5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches | ||
● Upside down staircase |
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5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
● Walk on the Mild Side |
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5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches | ||
● Happy Face |
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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport | ||
● Bivy Route |
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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport | ||
● Crankcase |
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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR | ||
● The Eagle's Gift |
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5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
● Highlander |
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5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches | ||
● Wheaties |
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5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
● Entrance Exam |
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5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
● All Seriousness Aside |
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5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
● Eagle Direct |
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5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad | ||
● Sales Pitch |
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5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport |
Weather Averages
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Photos
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Guidebooks (3)
Featured Guidebooks:
Bluffin With My Muffin
Bryce Dalhaus 2016
A Mini-Guide to the Bouldering at Eagle Bluff, Clifton, ME.
An Ice Climber's Guide to Southern New England and Eastern New York
Author: Todd Swain/ Publish…
This guidebook covers 200 ice climbing areas in Connecticut, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, souther…
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