Elevation: 677 ft
GPS: 44.793, -68.496 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 29,652 total · 237/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Oct 5, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Welcome to Eagle Bluff

Looking up from the Wheaties ledge.

Eagle Bluff is Clifton's most popular and well-known climbing area with over 130 sport and trad routes as well as a collection of boulders that hold over five dozen problems. Climbers of all kinds will find enjoyable lines. Trad cracks? Check. Hyper-technical slabs? Check. Overhanging sport climbs? Check. Multipitch? Check. Routes range from 5.easy to 5.12d with a few projects still waiting for an ascent. The boulder problems are mostly in the V0-V3 range, but there are a few unfinished lines and a handful of V5-V6s.

Access is secured and most of the anchors are brand new thanks to the efforts of the CCA.

There are now 3 signed parking lots!

North Lot - Park here to have quick access to the Practice Wall and the left end of Eagle Bluff. This is also the best way to access the summit. 10 minutes to the climbing.

Overflow Lot - Located in the middle. The crowds are non-existent, so you may never have to park here.
​​​​
South Lot
- Park here to walk into the boulders or to access the middle or right end of Eagle Bluff. Allow 8 minutes to the boulders or 12-15 to the cliffs.

Finishing up Eagle Direct

Getting There

From the intersection of route 9 and 180, drive 2.6 miles south on route 180. The northern parking area will be on the left after about 2.5 miles, followed by the overflow parking and finally the southern parking area.  If you reach Springy Pond Road you are in the vicinity of the parking areas but missed them all, which are back towards Route 9.

59 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Slice of the Gunks
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Witch Wonder
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
Walk on the Mild Side
Sport 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 27
Bivy Route
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Happy Face
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Crankcase
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 14
The Eagle's Gift
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 31
Wheaties
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Highlander
Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Where Eagles Dare
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
All Seriousness Aside
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Chinese Water Torture Direct
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Entrance Exam
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Blaze of Glory
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
Eagle Direct
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slice of the Gunks
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Witch Wonder
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Walk on the Mild Side
 18
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Bivy Route
 27
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Happy Face
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Crankcase
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Eagle's Gift
 14
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Wheaties
 31
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Highlander
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Where Eagles Dare
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
All Seriousness Aside
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Chinese Water Torture Direct
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Entrance Exam
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Blaze of Glory
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Eagle Direct
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Eagle Bluff »

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Travis Dustin
Hollis, NH
Travis Dustin   Hollis, NH
What is the approach like? Jul 6, 2012
Scott Brown
Bellingham
Scott Brown   Bellingham
10-15 minutes Oct 29, 2012
maineah
Maine
maineah   Maine
As far as I know, permanent access is being negotiated and Eagle's is open for now Jun 25, 2014
nealg  
Definitely open. Just spent a day there last week after an 18 year hiatus. Was shocked how much lichen was on many of the classics.

Why is the place getting so little traffic? It is my favorite place in ME. Aug 13, 2014
TJHussey
Newburgh, ME
TJHussey   Newburgh, ME
I was climbing next to a Clifton Climber's Alliance board member last week who said the land purchase was just made recently-- it will allow public access & climbing to continue at Eagle Bluff! Sep 29, 2014
Aly East
Orono ME
Aly East   Orono ME
I live about 4 hours from Eagle Bluff, but I make day long trips out there all the time, I'm looking to stay out there for a longer period of time, but I've never heard of anyone camping out there before, is it alright to set up camp there, or is there a better place near by? Aug 30, 2015
Aly I cant recommend camping there at this time. On Saturday September 19th there will be a fundraiser BBQ to help finish protecting the bluff. This would be a great place to ask folks if its OK. Suggested donations are $10 and the link can be found...

Clifton Climbers Alliance

With any luck camping can become a part of the area in the years to come! For now you can always check out the Parks Pond Campground which is about a 10-15 minute drive from Eagles.

Parks Pond Campground Sep 14, 2015
Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
This is one of the best cliffs in Maine. Oct 9, 2018