Type: | Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches |
FA: | Eric Hendrickson, John Pinnette (70s) FFA - Mike Opuda (70s) |
Page Views: | 2,235 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | Jonathan Steitzer on Oct 15, 2010 |
Admins: | BDalhaus, Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall |
In partnership with the Clifton Climber's Alliance, Access Fund holds an Option Agreement through August 2014 to purchase the crag for permanent conservation and public access. Access Fund also holds a lease agreement to address the landowner's concerns about liability and access is re-allowed after the 8-month closure. Please donate ataccessfund.org/eaglebluff today
Description
An awesome classic two pitch crack climb that you'll want to do over and over.
For the first pitch you can either climb the bolted chunky monkey arĂȘte of Highlander (5.7) or slither up the dirty dihedral and slamming through a slot chimney (5.9)
For the second pitch follow the crack up and through a squeeze chimney that's quite a squeeze, on the scale of something like being born. Getting into the chimney's the crux. Then follow the easy crack the rest of the way up to the anchor bolts @ the top. (5.7)
It's a fun climb, with beautiful views. Bring some friends for a party because the belay ledge between the two pitches is huge!
For the first pitch you can either climb the bolted chunky monkey arĂȘte of Highlander (5.7) or slither up the dirty dihedral and slamming through a slot chimney (5.9)
For the second pitch follow the crack up and through a squeeze chimney that's quite a squeeze, on the scale of something like being born. Getting into the chimney's the crux. Then follow the easy crack the rest of the way up to the anchor bolts @ the top. (5.7)
It's a fun climb, with beautiful views. Bring some friends for a party because the belay ledge between the two pitches is huge!
Location
From the Roofs, walk right around the base of the cliff. The first awesome looking crack you see that has a giant flake chimney near the top of the cliff is Witch Wonder. You can follow the crack all the way down to the base. There's a line of bolts that leads up the blocky arĂȘte just left of the crack, that's Highlander. It's super visually striking and hard to miss.
You can abseil down off of Highlander's rap bolts, or do the short easy walk off.
You can abseil down off of Highlander's rap bolts, or do the short easy walk off.
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