All Locations > Maine > -Clifton Crags > Eagle Bluff

Witch Wonder

Name: Witch Wonder
Rating: 3.4

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Eagle Bluff

L › R R › L A › Z

	38 and Drug Free TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Airline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	All Seriousness Aside S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Alley Fox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Alleyway T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Amber Waves of Grain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Another Bolted Face Climb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Apple Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Attitude Adjuster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bivy Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Blaze of Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Bloody Phalanges S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Chinese Water Torture Direct S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Climb Out or Ground Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
	Corner Line T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Crankcase T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crankenstein S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Delirious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
	Dirty Meat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Down Under S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Eagle Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Eagle's Gift, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Easy Stuff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Eavesy Stuff T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Element 115 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Entrance Exam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Flake to Nowhere T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Foxy Lady T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Happy Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hard Stuff T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Help T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Highlander S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jack the Dripper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Longitudinal Wave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Maine Bound Memorial Route T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
	No Rest for the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Only Frontier, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Pried and Joy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Punks in the Gunks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Rainy Day Deliverance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Reckless Abandon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Root of Choice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Route Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sales Flake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sales Pitch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Scrappy Face S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Seamless TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Short Stuff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Slice of the Gunks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Squeezed In TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Standard Route AKA Open Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Stevie's Spanking S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Talus Scout S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Tax Is Too Steep, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Texas Two Step T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Upside down staircase T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Walk on the Mild Side S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Wave Guide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	What's In a Name? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Wheaties S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Where Eagles Dare T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Witch Wonder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Eric Hendrickson, John Pinnette (70s) FFA - Mike Opuda (70s)
Page Views:	3,471 total · 26/month
Shared By:	Jonathan Steitzer on Oct 15, 2010
Admins:	BDalhaus, Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

An awesome classic two pitch crack climb that you'll want to do over and over.

For the first pitch you can either climb the bolted chunky monkey arête of Highlander (5.7) or slither up the dirty dihedral and slamming through a slot chimney (5.9)

For the second pitch follow the crack up and through a squeeze chimney that's quite a squeeze, on the scale of something like being born. Getting into the chimney's the crux. Then follow the easy crack the rest of the way up to the anchor bolts @ the top. (5.7)

It's a fun climb, with beautiful views. Bring some friends for a party because the belay ledge between the two pitches is huge!

Location

From the Roofs, walk right around the base of the cliff. The first awesome looking crack you see that has a giant flake chimney near the top of the cliff is Witch Wonder. You can follow the crack all the way down to the base. There's a line of bolts that leads up the blocky arête just left of the crack, that's Highlander. It's super visually striking and hard to miss.

You can abseil down off of Highlander's rap bolts, or do the short easy walk off.