Type: Sport, 165 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: 10/90
Page Views: 2,027 total · 16/month
Shared By: matt.maine on Oct 8, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

up 5.7 slab past 2 bolts to horizontals on blocky holds past small overhang crux to 2 bolt belay
up flakes to classic face climbing on blunt arete crux to another 2 bolt belay

Location

to the left of large roofs (90'from ground) the 5.7 slab is unmistakable

Protection

gear with a few bolts

Photos

afh Horovitz
Portland, OR
 
afh Horovitz   Portland, OR
 
spectacular jug hauling on the first pitch followed by classic delicate face climbing on the second. one of the best routes at clifton. possible to break right at the first belay into witch wonder. Dec 8, 2009
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.10b
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
  5.10b
On the first pitch a small cam was used maybe 0.4 or 0.5? before the first bolt.

Also, I remember a no. 1 or 0.75 beeing used in a 5.4 section on the 2nd pitch. Aside from that I didn't need gear other than Quickdraws. Mar 23, 2011
Matt LaBonty
Scarborough
 
Matt LaBonty   Scarborough
 
As Dom pointed out you can back up the runout sections on each pitch with a small cam on the first and usually a large nut on the second. But it is usually done as a sport route throughout since the two runout sections are the easiest sections on both climbs. As Ari stated, this route is spectacular! An awesome roof section with positive holds on the first pitch followed by a technical slab at the top with some great exposure Nov 9, 2011