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Routes in Eagle Bluff

38 and Drug Free TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
All Seriousness Aside S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Alleyway T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Amber Waves of Grain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Another Bolted Face Climb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Apple Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Attitude Adjuster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bivy Route S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Blaze of Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bloody Phalanges S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture Direct S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb Out or Ground Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Corner Line T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crankcase T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delirious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Dirty Meat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Down Under S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle's Gift, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Stuff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eavesy Stuff T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Element 115 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Entrance Exam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake to Nowhere T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Stuff T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Highlander S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jack the Dripper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Longitudinal Wave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maine Bound Memorial Route T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
No Rest for the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only Frontier, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pried and Joy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Punks in the Gunks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rainy Day Deliverance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reckless Abandon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Root of Choice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scrappy Face S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seamless TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Short Stuff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Slice of the Gunks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeezed In TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stevie's Spanking S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talus Scout S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tax Is Too Steep, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Texas Two Step T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Upside down staircase T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walk on the Mild Side S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wave Guide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
What's In a Name? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wheaties S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Where Eagles Dare T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Witch Wonder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 165 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: 10/90
Page Views: 1,787 total, 16/month
Shared By: matt.maine on Oct 8, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Your help needed to keep this crag open! Details

Description

up 5.7 slab past 2 bolts to horizontals on blocky holds past small overhang crux to 2 bolt belay
up flakes to classic face climbing on blunt arete crux to another 2 bolt belay

Location

to the left of large roofs (90'from ground) the 5.7 slab is unmistakable

Protection

gear with a few bolts

Photos

Matt LaBonty
Scarborough
 
Matt LaBonty   Scarborough
 
As Dom pointed out you can back up the runout sections on each pitch with a small cam on the first and usually a large nut on the second. But it is usually done as a sport route throughout since the two runout sections are the easiest sections on both climbs. As Ari stated, this route is spectacular! An awesome roof section with positive holds on the first pitch followed by a technical slab at the top with some great exposure Nov 9, 2011
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.10b
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
  5.10b
On the first pitch a small cam was used maybe 0.4 or 0.5? before the first bolt.

Also, I remember a no. 1 or 0.75 beeing used in a 5.4 section on the 2nd pitch. Aside from that I didn't need gear other than Quickdraws. Mar 23, 2011
afh
Portland, OR
 
afh   Portland, OR
 
spectacular jug hauling on the first pitch followed by classic delicate face climbing on the second. one of the best routes at clifton. possible to break right at the first belay into witch wonder. Dec 8, 2009