PRINT: Climbing in Eagle Bluff, -Clifton Crags

Eagle Bluff

Maine > -Clifton Crags

Welcome to Eagle Bluff

NOTE Sub-Areas Entrance Wall to Right End are organized Left > Right R Hall , Admin

Eagle Bluff is Clifton's most popular and well-known climbing area with over 130 sport and trad routes as well as a collection of boulders that hold over five dozen problems. Climbers of all kinds will find enjoyable lines. Trad cracks? Check. Hyper-technical slabs? Check. Overhanging sport climbs? Check. Multipitch? Check. Routes range from 5.easy to 5.12d with a few projects still waiting for an ascent. The boulder problems are mostly in the V0-V3 range, but there are a few unfinished lines and a handful of V5-V6s.

Access is secured and most of the anchors are brand new thanks to the efforts of the CCA.

There are now 3 signed parking lots!

North Lot - Park here to have quick access to the Practice Wall and the left end of Eagle Bluff. This is also the best way to access the summit. 10 minutes to the climbing.

Overflow Lot - Located in the middle. The crowds are non-existent, so you may never have to park here.

South Lot - Park here to walk into the boulders or to access the middle or right end of Eagle Bluff. Allow 8 minutes to the boulders or 12-15 to the cliffs.

Getting There

From the intersection of route 9 and 180, drive 2.6 miles south on route 180. The northern parking area will be on the left after about 2.5 miles, followed by the overflow parking and finally the southern parking area. If you reach Springy Pond Road you are in the vicinity of the parking areas but missed them all, which are back towards Route 9.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up from the Wheaties ledge.

Looking northwest at Eagle Bluff. Walls and some routes labeled. This is from the Clifton Climbers Alliance website, which was set up to preserve climbing access to the public, so there should be n…

Rapping from the very top of eagles

Map of Eagle Bluff Property

for the lucky ones

Finishing up Eagle Direct

Nearing the top of Blaze of Glory

Practice area

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Travis Dustin
Mexico Maine

What is the approach like? Jul 6, 2012

Scott Brown
Bellingham

10-15 minutes Oct 29, 2012

maineah
Maine

As far as I know, permanent access is being negotiated and Eagle's is open for now Jun 25, 2014

nealg

Definitely open. Just spent a day there last week after an 18 year hiatus. Was shocked how much lichen was on many of the classics.

Why is the place getting so little traffic? It is my favorite place in ME. Aug 13, 2014

TJHussey
Winterport, ME

I was climbing next to a Clifton Climber's Alliance board member last week who said the land purchase was just made recently-- it will allow public access & climbing to continue at Eagle Bluff! Sep 29, 2014

Aly East
Orono ME

I live about 4 hours from Eagle Bluff, but I make day long trips out there all the time, I'm looking to stay out there for a longer period of time, but I've never heard of anyone camping out there before, is it alright to set up camp there, or is there a better place near by? Aug 30, 2015

Ryan Gibbs

Aly I cant recommend camping there at this time. On Saturday September 19th there will be a fundraiser BBQ to help finish protecting the bluff. This would be a great place to ask folks if its OK. Suggested donations are $10 and the link can be found...

Clifton Climbers Alliance cliftonclimbersalliance.org/

With any luck camping can become a part of the area in the years to come! For now you can always check out the Parks Pond Campground which is about a 10-15 minute drive from Eagles.

Parks Pond Campground parkspondcampground.com/ Sep 14, 2015

Jonathan S

This is one of the best cliffs in Maine. Oct 9, 2018

Will Jenkins
Ramsey, NJ

Was recently up there [Jun 2019] and saw all the new bolts they put it. Out of the 8 anchors I looked at, 6 had at least one loose bolt that you could spin and tighten by hand. Otherwise the climbing as awesome Jun 8, 2019

Cameron Pinchbeck
ME

Definitely one of the best spots in Maine. Aug 7, 2021