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Routes in Eagle Bluff

38 and Drug Free TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
All Seriousness Aside S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Alleyway T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Amber Waves of Grain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Another Bolted Face Climb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Apple Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Attitude Adjuster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bivy Route S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Blaze of Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bloody Phalanges S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture Direct S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb Out or Ground Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Corner Line T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crankcase T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delirious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Dirty Meat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Down Under S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eagle's Gift, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Stuff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eavesy Stuff T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Element 115 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Entrance Exam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake to Nowhere T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Stuff T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Highlander S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jack the Dripper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Longitudinal Wave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maine Bound Memorial Route T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
No Rest for the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only Frontier, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pried and Joy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Punks in the Gunks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rainy Day Deliverance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reckless Abandon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Root of Choice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scrappy Face S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seamless TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Short Stuff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Slice of the Gunks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeezed In TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stevie's Spanking S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talus Scout S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tax Is Too Steep, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Texas Two Step T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Upside down staircase T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walk on the Mild Side S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wave Guide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
What's In a Name? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wheaties S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Where Eagles Dare T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Witch Wonder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: JB, WS 10/1990
Page Views: 637 total, 8/month
Shared By: maineah on May 3, 2011
Admins: BDalhaus, Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Your help needed to keep this crag open! Details

Description

Climb up vertical rock on mostly positive holds. This route is unique due to the absence of the usual Clifton “crystal pinching.” The dike futures offer an array of jugs, side pulls, and a few pockets. The crux comes about mid way up the climb where you need to place a cam in a horizontal and make a move up to a nice side pull/jug.

Location

Looking at the main face, walk along bottom of cliff to the right of Witch Wonder about 60 ft. The bolt line begins above a small low angle slab.

Protection

The route is sport with one very notable exception. You will need a cam (BD size 0.75) to protect crux. There is an obvious horizontal crack to plug the cam into. Be sure to place the cam in the left side of the crack where crack is parallel, and not in the slightly flaring middle portion of the crack. There are bolt anchors at the top.

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