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South Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in South Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	City Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Dominatrix S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Nate Kimball Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Star Search S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Submission S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Elevation:	916 ft	279 m
GPS:	44.33735, -70.67071 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,404 total · 87/month
Shared By:	Mike Veazey on Oct 16, 2020
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine Details

Maine Peregrine Falcons breeding season extends from mid-March through July or August. Hiking or climbing near nesting peregrines can cause abandonment and death of eggs/young. If adults are away from the nest, eggs or young can become overheated, chilled, or chicks can miss feedings. Be on the lookout for agitated falcons that may vocalize, take avoidance flights, or dive-bomb those that are too close. If you encounter an aggressive peregrine falcon please immediately leave the area, and report incidents to Erynn Call, State Raptor Specialist, MDIFW, erynn.call@maine.gov.

To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…

Description

While the left end of the wall is in the trees, the right end of the South Wall sits above a big drop-off giving several of the climbs here an additional feeling of exposure. The wall is split in two by an obvious and attractive corner crack. The climbs to the right of this offer long, involved climbing on some really fun features. The climbing here is reminiscent of nearby Shagg Crag. Exercise extreme caution while navigating the ledge system along the base of the cliff. The drop-off is very serious.

Getting There

From the approach trail, walk left along the base of the Bastard Wall until you get to a fixed rope in a damp alcove at the base of the Dike Wall. Scramble easily up the fixed rope onto a narrow ledge system. Several of the climbs start from the ledge system. Continue leftwards along the ledge system and you will get to to woods and the left end of South Wall.