A.M.C. Route Variation

A really nice route at an extraordinary scenic location. Three long pitches of mostly face climbing along cracks and flakes.

P1. Climb left crack, veering right through a weakness with a vertical crack. Continue along the face, passing flakes and some bushes, veering slightly right all the way to a two bolt anchor on a nice tree ledge. 170' 5.6

Optionally climb the committing right crack to the same weakness. This was originally put as the main option, but using the left crack is more natural for the grade and route. 170' 5.7R

P2. Continue straight up the exciting face along more cracks and flakes to another two bolt anchor, just below a big tree filled ledge. 140' 5.6+ PG13

NOTE- 8/16/23 Comment - "On pitch 2, about 40 feet off the ledge, the most obvious route for the grade goes over some terribly hollow flakes. I didn't give it a shake or shift to test, as it was a pretty straight drop to the belay ledge, but it looks like it wants to fall. A more experienced person might want to take a look, maybe trundle this off. Or a follower can get above and shake it, comment if it's solid? "

Scramble up 20' to tree ledge and belay here for the next pitch.

P3. Climb the crack filled face and then follow just right of the exposed arete, passing a big ledge and continue up all the way to a nice ledge with a tree belay. 150' 5.4

From here you can scramble to the top of the west summit and enjoy the views!! A trail leads to the Loop Tr and back out.

Note: This cliff can get windy and pay attention to loose rocks.

Left side of the cliff at the end of the climbers trail. This route starts at the same location as AMC Route.

Standard rack. Two bolted anchors for P1 and P2.

of Montreal, QC   found a reference that mentions that these routes are described in Appalachia magazine, Vol 29 (3), June 1953, p411-412.  
 
 If anyone can turn that up, it could be interesting..
 
 EDIT R Hall Admin- Yes, the Ref is correct. FA both routes Aug 1, 1952.  From the photo in June 1953 Appalachia both routes, even their "left route" are located right of the normally climbed lines.  However, since the normally climbed lines (solid lines on the photo) are reported to have the occasional old piton, it seems logical to assume that these more "left-ish" lines might have also had FAs by AMC parties in the years following 1952.

  The 1952 party called the two routes the "left hand route" FA By John Shugrue, John Post, and John Perry. "Extreme difficulties were encountered on the prominent arch and above, where a large overhang was avoided by a traverse to the left."  5 hours was required, and "two 120-foot ropes should be used per party".  
 
 "The second route was climbed by John Taylor, Kent Geiger and Mildred Geiger.  Starting at the same point as route one, it follows a series of diagonal cracks and slabs to the right. An exposed vertical pitch beneath the overhang (near the upper right of the picture) proved to be quote difficult."  6 hours was required  
 
 The note concluded: " The whole mountain offers numerous potential routes from 400 to 500 feet vertically in height on sound granitic gneiss.