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A.M.C. Route Variation

Name: A.M.C. Route Variation
Rating: 3.8

5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British

Routes in Tumbledown Mtn Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	A.M.C. Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	A.M.C. Route Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Central Groove T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
	Lakeview Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	North Peak Western Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Olympus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Paradis Gully (Ice Climb) T WI2 M1
	Western Edge of East Peak. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type:	Trad, 3 pitches
FA:	Unknown - John Taylor, Kent Geiger and Mildred Geiger climbed a route right of this route on Aug 1 1952
Page Views:	4,456 total · 41/month
Shared By:	Ron Birk on Aug 8, 2016
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine Details

Maine Peregrine Falcons breeding season extends from mid-March through July or August. Hiking or climbing near nesting peregrines can cause abandonment and death of eggs/young. If adults are away from the nest, eggs or young can become overheated, chilled, or chicks can miss feedings. Be on the lookout for agitated falcons that may vocalize, take avoidance flights, or dive-bomb those that are too close. If you encounter an aggressive peregrine falcon please immediately leave the area, and report incidents to Erynn Call, State Raptor Specialist, MDIFW, erynn.call@maine.gov.

To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…

Current (2025) raptor closure information can be attained by reaching out to Chris Duca (christopherduca@gmail.com), or by following The Stewards of Western Maine Climbing Instagram site (@_swmc_)

There are active nests on the following cliffs in Western Maine:
- Shagg Crag
- Bear Mountain
- Tumbledown Mtn. (Weld)

Description

A really nice route at an extraordinary scenic location. Three long pitches of mostly face climbing along cracks and flakes.

P1. Climb left crack, veering right through a weakness with a vertical crack. Continue along the face, passing flakes and some bushes, veering slightly right all the way to a two bolt anchor on a nice tree ledge. 170' 5.6

Optionally climb the committing right crack to the same weakness. This was originally put as the main option, but using the left crack is more natural for the grade and route. 170' 5.7R

P2. Continue straight up the exciting face along more cracks and flakes to another two bolt anchor, just below a big tree filled ledge. 140' 5.6+ PG13

NOTE- 8/16/23 Comment - "On pitch 2, about 40 feet off the ledge, the most obvious route for the grade goes over some terribly hollow flakes. I didn't give it a shake or shift to test, as it was a pretty straight drop to the belay ledge, but it looks like it wants to fall. A more experienced person might want to take a look, maybe trundle this off. Or a follower can get above and shake it, comment if it's solid? "

Scramble up 20' to tree ledge and belay here for the next pitch.

P3. Climb the crack filled face and then follow just right of the exposed arete, passing a big ledge and continue up all the way to a nice ledge with a tree belay. 150' 5.4

From here you can scramble to the top of the west summit and enjoy the views!! A trail leads to the Loop Tr and back out.

Note: This cliff can get windy and pay attention to loose rocks.

Location

Left side of the cliff at the end of the climbers trail. This route starts at the same location as AMC Route.

Protection

Standard rack. Two bolted anchors for P1 and P2.

History

petzl logic of Montreal, QC found a reference that mentions that these routes are described in Appalachia magazine, Vol 29 (3), June 1953, p411-412.

If anyone can turn that up, it could be interesting..

EDIT R Hall Admin- Yes, the Ref is correct. FA both routes Aug 1, 1952. From the photo in June 1953 Appalachia both routes, even their "left route" are located right of the normally climbed lines. However, since the normally climbed lines (solid lines on the photo) are reported to have the occasional old piton, it seems logical to assume that these more "left-ish" lines might have also had FAs by AMC parties in the years following 1952.

The 1952 party called the two routes the "left hand route" FA By John Shugrue, John Post, and John Perry. "Extreme difficulties were encountered on the prominent arch and above, where a large overhang was avoided by a traverse to the left." 5 hours was required, and "two 120-foot ropes should be used per party".

"The second route was climbed by John Taylor, Kent Geiger and Mildred Geiger. Starting at the same point as route one, it follows a series of diagonal cracks and slabs to the right. An exposed vertical pitch beneath the overhang (near the upper right of the picture) proved to be quote difficult." 6 hours was required

The note concluded: " The whole mountain offers numerous potential routes from 400 to 500 feet vertically in height on sound granitic gneiss.