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Dike Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Dike Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	City Link S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Covid Haircut S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	First Born S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lust for Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Millinocket Wedding S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Mystery Meat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Pangolin, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Phallix Extension S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Phallix Handhold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Second Born S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Spikes & Twine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Super-Spreader S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Welcome to Greenwood City S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Wet Market S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	921 ft	281 m
GPS:	44.33752, -70.67007 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	11,399 total · 214/month
Shared By:	Mike Veazey on Oct 16, 2020 · Updates
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine Details

Maine Peregrine Falcons breeding season extends from mid-March through July or August. Hiking or climbing near nesting peregrines can cause abandonment and death of eggs/young. If adults are away from the nest, eggs or young can become overheated, chilled, or chicks can miss feedings. Be on the lookout for agitated falcons that may vocalize, take avoidance flights, or dive-bomb those that are too close. If you encounter an aggressive peregrine falcon please immediately leave the area, and report incidents to Erynn Call, State Raptor Specialist, MDIFW, erynn.call@maine.gov.

To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…

Description

This is the premier wall at Bald Bluff. 100+ feet tall and 300 feet long this wall is a stunner. Vertical to gently overhung, this wall has fantastic climbing from 5.10 to 5.12. The Dike Wall has some of the most interesting features to climb in Western Maine. Large and small chunks of basalt were left sticking out of the wall as the dike eroded leaving some truly amazing square-cut holds to grab. "Welcome to Greenwood City" and "Spikes & Twine" are the best ways to climb these features.

Getting There

Parts of the base of the Dike Wall run steeply uphill and are not very accessible. Thus the routes are accessed at three different points (Lower Dike, Middle Dike, Upper Dike). Although you can scramble up the actual dike, it is not recommended. Loose blocks abound and can create a serious hazard for both you and other climbers.

Lower Dike - From the end of the approach trail, walk underneath the overhangs of the Bastard Wall leftwards to the very bottom of the dike. This is the belay spot for both "Spikes & Twine" and "Welcome to Greenwood City".

Middle Dike - From the end of the approach trail, follow the trail steeply uphill past several interesting caves to where the gully peters out. From here take a left and follow the obvious footpath to the base of the cliff.

Upper Dike - From the end of the approach trail, follow the trail steeply uphill past several interesting caves to where the gully peters out. From there follow a trail uphill and to the right of a short outcrop then back left across the top of the outcrop to the cliff.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Dike Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 14 ● Phallix Handhold Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 6 ● The Pangolin Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 22 ● Welcome to Greenwood City Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 6 ● Mystery Meat Sport

● Phallix Handhold

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport

● The Pangolin

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● Welcome to Greenwood City

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport

● Mystery Meat

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

More Classic Climbs in Dike Wall »

Sun & Shade

Sun Angles Details:

Routes Mostly Face: East · South

Details: The Dike Wall faces East and get's good morning sun and afternoon shade. The South Wall faces South and gets mid-day sun. The Bastard Wall also faces South and stays sunny from mid morning to early afternoon.