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Routes in Parking Lot Buttress

5 Easy Pieces T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Book of Eli, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Legion of Decency T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Road Not Taken, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 180 ft
FA: Matt Ritter
Page Views: 633 total, 24/month
Shared By: matthew ritter on Sep 20, 2015
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Legion of Decency is a magnificent, instant mega classic, and an atypical crack climb of Acadia. Parts of this route may have been top roped by earlier explorers after climbing one of the nearby obscure, un-loved, burly, kickass climbs of the Parking Lot Buttress. The route has never seen a lead climber until recently, which is mind boggling because the route is rather jaw dropping when viewed from the ground. Though having a newly cleaned splitter crack system to send off on certainly contributes to its beauty.
A gorgeous right facing corner crack moderated by a splitter in-cut crack on the right leads to a clean slab with bomber finger sized gear in a sweet crack. A short headwall boulder problem with dueling side-pulls gains a beautiful alcove ledge and the beginning of the business.
From here, jam, side pull, and stem hard off the opposing wall, making sure to clip gear long as you have just embarked on a 50m pitch!
This is a wild, exposed, and super steep crack that would be much much harder if the stemming wall did not exist. That said, this route is definitely harder for climbers of minimal lank. Fully stemmed out, it feels amazing to be climbing such a wild pitch so securely!
There is a potential "death flake" before the crux but none of us have had to pull on it or place gear in it... The crux comes as the wall steepens slightly , the left crack becomes more splitter, the right side-pulls become less positive, and the stem which gradually widens must be left behind in order to exit left onto the most incredible ledge in Acadia.
From the small triangular ledge which, looks (on a smaller scale) like it belongs on El Cap. Step right into a tough ringlock crux in a chewy, man-hand creating granite crack that splits the very edge of a vertical to slightly overhanging arete. On its own, the next 40 feet of climbing is one of Acadia’s purest cracks. But this climb is not over! from the top of the crack step left to a puckering face boulder problem, some scrambly stuff, and finish up the dueling cracks of the Weismuller Route on some of the best rock in the country.

Location

Right side of The Bent Buttress
Two raps, bolt station climbers left of the obvious belay tree at the top

Protection

double rack to fist size
Tree anchor

Photos

This route is good. Real good. Jun 9, 2017