Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Unknown - John Shugrue, John Post, and John Perry. climbed a route right of this route on Aug 1, 1952
Page Views: 6,769 total · 39/month
Shared By: bradley white on Aug 1, 2009
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine Details


This climb is on the wide west side, outside ramp ridge, next to the central depression, and is away from the rock slides that have radically changed the appearance of the right side, the red wall ledges. I posted this route, and I haven't done it. I believed I had, until photos were posted. The A.M.C is a classic route, and far better than what I climbed, the left ridge, far left of the red section. 


West central ramp ridge of the Great Ledges. Walk down trail.


Trad gear.


petzl logic of Montreal, QC   found a reference that mentions that these routes are described in Appalachia magazine, Vol 29 (3), June 1953, p411-412.  
 If anyone can turn that up, it could be interesting..
 EDIT R Hall Admin- Yes, the Ref is correct. FA both routes Aug 1, 1952. From the photo in June 1953 Appalachia both routes, even their "left route" are located right of the normally climbed lines.  However, since the normally climbed lines (solid lines on the photo) are reported to have the occasional old piton, it seems logical to assume that these more "left-ish" lines might have also had FAs by AMC parties in the years following 1952.

  The 1952 party called the two routes the "left hand route" FA By John Shugrue, John Post, and John Perry. "Extreme difficulties were encountered on the prominent arch and above, where a large overhang was avoided by a traverse to the left."  5 hours was required, and "two 120-foot ropes should be used per party".  
 "The second route was climbed by John Taylor, Kent Geiger and Mildred Geiger.  Starting at the same point as route one, it follows a series of diagonal cracks and slabs to the right. An exposed vertical pitch beneath the overhang (near the upper right of the picture) proved to be quote difficult."  6 hours was required  
 The note concluded: " The whole mountain offers numerous potential routes from 400 to 500 feet vertically in height on sound granitic gneiss.