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A.M.C. Route

Name: A.M.C. Route
Rating: 3.5

5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British

Routes in Tumbledown Mtn Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	A.M.C. Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	A.M.C. Route Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Central Groove T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
	Lakeview Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	North Peak Western Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Olympus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Paradis Gully (Ice Climb) T WI2 M1
	Western Edge of East Peak. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type:	Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Unknown - John Shugrue, John Post, and John Perry. climbed a route right of this route on Aug 1, 1952
Page Views:	6,769 total · 39/month
Shared By:	bradley white on Aug 1, 2009
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine Details

Maine Peregrine Falcons breeding season extends from mid-March through July or August. Hiking or climbing near nesting peregrines can cause abandonment and death of eggs/young. If adults are away from the nest, eggs or young can become overheated, chilled, or chicks can miss feedings. Be on the lookout for agitated falcons that may vocalize, take avoidance flights, or dive-bomb those that are too close. If you encounter an aggressive peregrine falcon please immediately leave the area, and report incidents to Erynn Call, State Raptor Specialist, MDIFW, erynn.call@maine.gov.

To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out the 2021 Maine Peregrine Falcon Program Report: maine.gov/ifw/docs/2021%20M…

Description

This climb is on the wide west side, outside ramp ridge, next to the central depression, and is away from the rock slides that have radically changed the appearance of the right side, the red wall ledges. I posted this route, and I haven't done it. I believed I had, until photos were posted. The A.M.C is a classic route, and far better than what I climbed, the left ridge, far left of the red section.

Location

West central ramp ridge of the Great Ledges. Walk down trail.

Protection

Trad gear.

History

petzl logic of Montreal, QC found a reference that mentions that these routes are described in Appalachia magazine, Vol 29 (3), June 1953, p411-412.

If anyone can turn that up, it could be interesting..

EDIT R Hall Admin- Yes, the Ref is correct. FA both routes Aug 1, 1952. From the photo in June 1953 Appalachia both routes, even their "left route" are located right of the normally climbed lines. However, since the normally climbed lines (solid lines on the photo) are reported to have the occasional old piton, it seems logical to assume that these more "left-ish" lines might have also had FAs by AMC parties in the years following 1952.

The 1952 party called the two routes the "left hand route" FA By John Shugrue, John Post, and John Perry. "Extreme difficulties were encountered on the prominent arch and above, where a large overhang was avoided by a traverse to the left." 5 hours was required, and "two 120-foot ropes should be used per party".

"The second route was climbed by John Taylor, Kent Geiger and Mildred Geiger. Starting at the same point as route one, it follows a series of diagonal cracks and slabs to the right. An exposed vertical pitch beneath the overhang (near the upper right of the picture) proved to be quote difficult." 6 hours was required

The note concluded: " The whole mountain offers numerous potential routes from 400 to 500 feet vertically in height on sound granitic gneiss.