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Routes in Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - Summer Rock Routes

"Diamond Area", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
American Beauty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Armadillo, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baron's Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flatiron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Memorial Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pamola 5.0 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
Pamola IV Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Radio Nowhere T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Wind in the Willows, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wrong Chimney, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ted Dillard and Russ Dubiel
Page Views: 2,133 total, 77/month
Shared By: Zak Munro on Aug 15, 2015
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details

Description

Approach same way as the Armadillo, then breakout right to the first grassy tier, take the traverse to the large slab that forms a cave.
P1: Head up diagonally left through finger crack and off width section, belay whenever convenient.
P2: Jam up awesome hand/fist/finger crack and pull small over lap. Belay wherever convenient then head up to ridge.

Protection

Single rack with possible #4 Camelot size piece. Extra hand size pieces are nice but not completely necessary.
ndchu
 
ndchu  
 
This route is stellar, with more fun climbing than the more often climbed neighbor next door. We climbed it on a cloudy cold day in October. Those chilly jams felt good!

Approach: as for the armadillo, take the vegetated path around the lower head wall and then head up the "black gully" that comes down from in between the flatiron and the armadillo. As you head up the gully, traverse out right when you get about parrallel with the lower vegetated ledge of the armadillo. You see some foot prints heading out that look like they will run out of space to go, but keep going.

Start: from the cave formed by the big slab, you can start from the left or right side. From the right side looked a bit more natural to us. Following the cracks left, you traverse a vegetated ledge, which present two dihedrals above. The left dihedral looks more difficult and the right is certainly easier. Both have grass in them. The LEFT dihedral is the start of the money pitch you want. There is a piton there where you belay. If you take the right route, prepare for drag or making another anchor.

Money pitch: it's great. The first bit can be protected with a 3 or 4, but there is a section that's offwidth that will require bigger gear or running it out. Get your jam on.

The rangers will tell you that many rap off. I really can't see how this would be better than toping out. The blocks aren't that loose or sketchy, simul up and enjoy the summit, which is right next to you. More fun than a repeat of the bushwhack. Oct 10, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
FYI...there's a photo in the Armadillo section labeled "approaches from Chimney Pond" that would seem to work for the Flatiron as well. Sep 9, 2015