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Routes in Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - Summer Rock Routes

"Diamond Area", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
American Beauty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Armadillo, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baron's Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flatiron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Memorial Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pamola 5.0 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
Pamola IV Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Radio Nowhere T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Wind in the Willows, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wrong Chimney, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ben Townsend, Dorcas Miller
Page Views: 1,005 total, 57/month
Shared By: Ben Townsend on Jun 28, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details


1. Start at the base of the big corner and climb finger and hand cracks on the right wall to a small overhang. Belay on a sloping stance just above. 5.7-, 120'.

2. Continue up the corner a short way to an obvious rightward finger traverse into a clean, vertical crack. Follow this (about 80' of 4-5" crack) to a belay alcove. 5.7, 130'.

3. Climb the broken ridge, mostly easy but with a couple of short 5.7 sections, until it's obvious to unrope and scramble up to the Knife Edge. 5.7-, 150'.


Just left of the upper pitches of the Cilley-Barber is a clean right-facing corner system. Approach as for the left side of the Armadillo, then traverse easily left on the bushy ledge to a slightly nervy step across the Cilley-Barber; the start of the route is just beyond. Hike off.


Standard rack, plus extra 4-5" gear for the second pitch.


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