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Routes in Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - Summer Rock Routes

"Diamond Area", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
American Beauty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Armadillo, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baron's Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flatiron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Memorial Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pamola 5.0 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
Pamola IV Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Radio Nowhere T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Wind in the Willows, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wrong Chimney, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dan Koch, Ben Townsend, summer 1982
Page Views: 79 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ben Townsend on Sep 24, 2017
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details

Description [Edit]

This route climbs the semi-independent buttress left of the Armadillo (left of the ice climb The Primitives), joining the Armadillo very near the top. It's a bit scrappy but has one breathtaking pitch.

1. Follow not-very-obvious cracks, mostly trending a bit right. (5.6)

2. More indistinct cracks and grooves lead up to the base of a short, steep headwall. (5.5) It might be possible to combine the first two pitches. In 1982, old manila slings were found here.

3. Instead of climbing the short headwall, crane your neck out right and find the horizontal hand crack traversing out over the void on perfect rock. Follow this crack until it ends and you can pull up into an offwidth-chimney; belay in a niche a short distance above. (5.7)

4. The rest of the climb is mostly low fifth class up the ridge crest, but unlike most of the other ridge finishes in the South Basin, it has numerous short, exposed technical cruxes where a rope will be much appreciated. Unrope where this ridge meets the main Armadillo ridge.

Location [Edit]

Approach as for the Armadillo, then traverse left on the vegetated ledge. Top out on the Knife Edge and hike down.

Protection [Edit]

Standard rack, maybe a couple extra hand-size pieces. No fixed gear.

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