Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dan Koch, Ben Townsend, summer 1982
Page Views: 135 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ben Townsend on Sep 24, 2017
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details


This route climbs the semi-independent buttress left of the Armadillo (left of the ice climb The Primitives), joining the Armadillo very near the top. It's a bit scrappy but has one breathtaking pitch.

1. Follow not-very-obvious cracks, mostly trending a bit right. (5.6)

2. More indistinct cracks and grooves lead up to the base of a short, steep headwall. (5.5) It might be possible to combine the first two pitches. In 1982, old manila slings were found here.

3. Instead of climbing the short headwall, crane your neck out right and find the horizontal hand crack traversing out over the void on perfect rock. Follow this crack until it ends and you can pull up into an offwidth-chimney; belay in a niche a short distance above. (5.7)

4. The rest of the climb is mostly low fifth class up the ridge crest, but unlike most of the other ridge finishes in the South Basin, it has numerous short, exposed technical cruxes where a rope will be much appreciated. Unrope where this ridge meets the main Armadillo ridge.


Approach as for the Armadillo, then traverse left on the vegetated ledge. Top out on the Knife Edge and hike down.


Standard rack, maybe a couple extra hand-size pieces. No fixed gear.


- No Photos -