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Routes in Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - Summer Rock Routes

"Diamond Area", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
American Beauty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Armadillo, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baron's Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flatiron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Memorial Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pamola 5.0 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
Pamola IV Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Radio Nowhere T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Wind in the Willows, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wrong Chimney, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, 1200 ft, Grade III
FA: Unknown [ as climbed by W. Hastings & R. Hall circa 1968 ]
Page Views: 612 total, 20/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jun 1, 2015 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details


Located to the right of THE Chimney, the "Wrong Chimney" provides access to the excellent class 4 / easy class 5 rib between the two chimneys. [NOTE: MtnPrjct member Ryan Gibbs suggests it is highly probable that this is the same gully/chimney as "False Chimney" in Rock Wilcox's winter ice climbing guide. ]

Scramble up into this chimney and climb it for about 200-300 feet, looking for an exit wall on the left as the central gully becomes steeper and more narrow, eventually the gully actual ends at a gravelly/poor-rock "headwall". [ I think we moved out on P5, but I have no recollection of pitch length, we would have been using a 40m (137 ft) or 150 ft rope.] The exit wall was the crux ( 5.4 -5.5 ?)

Above the exit wall, the rib (keep a bit to the right, see photo of upper section) provides for pleasant and enjoyable Class 4 / easy Class 5 climbing to the ridge just south of Chimney Peak.

I also think that on another day we climbed THE Chimney, and moved right onto the rib that ends exactly on Chimney Peak.


To the right of the "Correct" Chimney (i.e. "The Chimney")


Usual rack