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The Wind in the Willows
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.7 from 9
votes
Routes in 01. Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - Summer Rock Routes
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"Diamond Area", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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American Beauty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Armadillo, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Baron's Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Flatiron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Memorial Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Pamola 5.0 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13 |
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Pamola IV Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Radio Nowhere T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Wind in the Willows, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wrong Chimney, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Ben Townsend, Dan Koch, September 1982 |
| Page Views: | 5,554 total · 63/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Townsend on Sep 24, 2017 |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
[ Note Climbing Magazine # 378, Summer 2021, has a well-written 2 page article with photos of this climb. R Hall ME-Admin.]
This route follows the long finger and hand crack left of the left side of the Armadillo, which eventually becomes the fist crack above the Armadillo flake. Though mentioned in the Armadillo comments as a variation, it really deserves to be described as a separate route.
1. Climb the wide crack in the corner on the left side of the Armadillo flake to a ledge. (5.8)
2. Traverse left into the obvious crack system (fingers at first, gradually getting wider). Follow the crack to an airy stance at the top of the Armadillo flake. (5.9) At this point you have joined the normal Armadillo route.
3. Climb the Armadillo fist crack to a comfortable stance. (5.7)
4. Follow corners and cracks on the left, moving up right to gain the ridge crest. (5.7)
4th and easy 5th for about 400' to a big ledge where it's comfortable to unrope.
5 Comments