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Routes in Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - Summer Rock Routes

"Diamond Area", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
American Beauty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Armadillo, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baron's Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flatiron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Memorial Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pamola 5.0 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
Pamola IV Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Radio Nowhere T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Wind in the Willows, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wrong Chimney, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Ben Townsend, Dan Koch, September 1982
Page Views: 649 total · 59/month
Shared By: Ben Townsend on Sep 24, 2017
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details

Description

This route follows the long finger and hand crack left of the left side of the Armadillo, which eventually becomes the fist crack above the Armadillo flake. Though mentioned in the Armadillo comments as a variation, it really deserves to be described as a separate route.

1. Climb the wide crack in the corner on the left side of the Armadillo flake to a ledge. (5.8)

2. Traverse left into the obvious crack system (fingers at first, gradually getting wider). Follow the crack to an airy stance at the top of the Armadillo flake. (5.9) At this point you have joined the normal Armadillo route.

3. Climb the Armadillo fist crack to a comfortable stance. (5.7)

4. Follow corners and cracks on the left, moving up right to gain the ridge crest. (5.7)

4th and easy 5th for about 400' to a big ledge where it's comfortable to unrope.

Location

Approach as for the left side of the Armadillo; options include traversing out from the right on the vegetated ledge, a spooky-looking but easy chimney almost directly below the route, or a nice 5.7-5.8 corner just left of the chimney. Top out and hike down as for the Armadillo.

Protection

Standard rack to #5 or so, maybe extra thin-hand to hand sized pieces. Some old fixed pins, including the infamous bong, once you join the Armadillo.

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