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Routes in Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - Summer Rock Routes

"Diamond Area", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
American Beauty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Armadillo, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baron's Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flatiron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Memorial Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pamola 5.0 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
Pamola IV Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Radio Nowhere T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Wind in the Willows, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wrong Chimney, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Bob Baribeau
Page Views: 381 total, 23/month
Shared By: Joel Ryan on Aug 2, 2016 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details

Description

Climb the most prominent ridge between the Armadillo and the Flatiron. Route begins on the wet slabs up and climbers right from the start of the armadillo, hugging the right side of the canyon until you can begin ascending the ridge.

The crux pitch follows the ridgeline over terrifying hollow rock. It can be climbed at 5.5, but expect to make harder moves to avoid loose rock. Don't bother placing gear, it won't hold you. Airy, exposed, vegatated.

Location

The most prominent ridgeline between the armadillo and flatiron.

Protection

Light alpine rock rack

Photos

Definitely a Bob Baribeau climb from back in the day. I will see if I can dig out the official route name. This area is known as the Black Gullies Aug 3, 2016