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Elevation: 1,062 ft 324 m
GPS: 44.8285, -68.46456
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 41,544 total · 204/month
Shared By: Matthew Swartz on Apr 21, 2009 · Updates
Admins: BDalhaus, Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca

Description Suggest change

As per "Rock Climber's Guide to Clifton Crags" by Jon Tierney

A keen eye will catch a glimpse of the rolling domes of Clifton to the Northeast from I-95 as you approach Bangor. The most striking of these is Big Chick Hill or Big Peaked Mountain as the mapmakers call it. This is Clifton's answer to North Conway's Whitehorse Ledge. As one gets closer, its Tuolumne like appeal is sure to get you psyched. A leisurely twenty minute walk through beech and maple forest brings you near the center of the cliff directly below the summit. To the left are a multitude of newly cleaned sport climbs in the 5.7 to 5.11 range. Several elegant slab lines are to the right including Overnite Sensation (5.8), Vacationland (5.9) and Maine Line (5.11).
The majority of Big Chick Hill routes are 5.8-5.10 and range from one to three pitches in length. For the moderate leader, My Time (5.6), is highly recommended. Well to the right and slightly downhill is the Oven Wall, your best choice for staying warm on cool days.
Sitting just west of Big Chick is Little Chick Hill. Although the climbing is negligible, there is a cool cave worth checking out if you are looking for a break from cragging. There is a vertical squeeze entrance and a walk-in horizontal entrance. See if you can find them.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Route 180 and 9 intersection, follow Route 9 east 4.3 miles. As you ascend a long hill, find a large gravel roadside pull-off on the left (north) side of the road. Park here and from the eastern end of the gravel, scramble around in the woods until you pick up a trail. After twenty minutes of gentle contouring the trail reaches the cliff near the route Vertical Sketchmaster (5.10b). To the left are several excellent seventy to ninety foot sport climbs. To reach the Maine Face, traverse to the right along the cliff base.

44 Total Climbs

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Location: Big Chick Hill Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Chick Hill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 31
My Time
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Buteo and the Beast
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 10
Overnite Sensation
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Lyback
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
Weakened Warrior
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Merlin's Magic
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Glueme Day
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
CC Direct
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Black Beauty
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Son of a Birch
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
Three's Company
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 4
Variety Pack
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 4
Snake and Bake
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Circling Vultures
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
The Maine Line
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
My Time Main Face
 31
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Buteo and the Beast Left End & Left Face
 10
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Overnite Sensation Main Face
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Lyback Tower Buttress & Face
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Weakened Warrior Left End & Left Face
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Merlin's Magic Left End & Left Face
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Glueme Day Left End & Left Face
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
CC Direct Main Face
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Black Beauty Left End & Left Face
 5
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Son of a Birch Tower Buttress & Face
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Three's Company Main Face
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Variety Pack Left End & Left Face
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad
Snake and Bake Main Face
 4
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Circling Vultures Left End & Left Face
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Maine Line Main Face
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Big Chick Hill »

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