Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Big Chick Hill

Gully Wall, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Highway Robbery Buttress 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Left End and Left Face 12 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Lobotomy Buttress 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Main Face 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Oven Wall 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Rabbit Buttress, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Tower Buttress and Face 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Description

As per "Rock Climber's Guide to Clifton Crags" by Jon Tierney

A keen eye will catch a glimpse of the rolling domes of Clifton to the Northeast from I-95 as you approach Bangor. The most striking of these is Big Chick Hill or Big Peaked Mountain as the mapmakers call it. This is Clifton's answer to North Conway's Whitehorse Ledge. As one gets closer, its Tuolumne like appeal is sure to get you psyched. A leisurely twenty minute walk through beech and maple forest brings you near the center of the cliff directly below the summit. To the left are a multitude of newly cleaned sport climbs in the 5.7 to 5.11 range. Several elegant slab lines are to the right including Overnite Sensation (5.8), Vacationland (5.9) and Maine Line (5.11).
The majority of Big Chick Hill routes are 5.8-5.10 and range from one to three pitches in length. For the moderate leader, My Time (5.6), is highly recommended. Well to the right and slightly downhill is the Oven Wall, your best choice for staying warm on cool days.
Sitting just west of Big Chick is Little Chick Hill. Although the climbing is negligible, there is a cool cave worth checking out if you are looking for a break from cragging. There is a vertical squeeze entrance and a walk-in horizontal entrance. See if you can find them.

Getting There

From the Route 180 and 9 intersection, follow Route 9 east 4.3 miles. As you ascend a long hill, find a large gravel roadside pull-off on the left (north) side of the road. Park here and from the eastern end of the gravel, scramble around in the woods until you pick up a trail. After twenty minutes of gentle contouring the trail reaches the cliff near the route Vertical Sketchmaster (5.10b). To the left are several excellent seventy to ninety food sport climbs. To reach the Maine Face, traverse to the right along the cliff base.

28 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Big Chick Hill Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Big Chick Hill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Big Chick Hill »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
It's a mystery why more people don't climb here. There is ton of good quality, well-bolted moderates. The pitches are long and the rock is sheer and good quality leading to great exposure for single pitch climbs. Unfortunately these climbs are being reclaimed by the moss and lichen.

The climbing is better than Eagle's Bluff IMHO.

Jim May 14, 2013

More About Big Chick Hill

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Big Chick Hill (13)

Most Popular · Newest