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Routes in Canada Cliff Boulder

Type: Boulder, 22 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 583 total · 23/month
Shared By: opusgrooves on Sep 8, 2016 with updates from Christian Prellwitz
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

The massive line on the highball boulder visibly to the left of the Canada Cliffs Main Boulder. This thing is tall and insanely proud. The landing is terrible as well, so come prepared. (30 ft. maybe?!)

The top out is terribly hard. Mantle for your life!

Also, make sure to scope it out and clean it before attempting, as many injuries from ground falls have been reported from this boulder. I myself landed, bouncing off the tree to the ground, and was lucky not to have broken my legs.

Location

The huge boulder to the left of the Canada Cliffs Main Boulder. Can't miss it!

Protection

Pads and spotters mandatory.

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5
This is a beautiful line that climbs well, with long moves on mostly good holds. Probably more in the v5 range, perhaps even v4. Definitely not deserving of an X rating, as the upper moves are the easiest on the climb and the landing can be made fairly safe with a handful of pads. Also, realistically, this is more like 20-22' high. May 4, 2018
opusgrooves  
 
Dude, I measured this when posting project descriptions in the Acadia National Park area and it's just under 30' when measured from the top-out to the base of the tree in the landing. Several people have broken legs on this project because of the rocks in the landing. And we've seen people bounce off that same tree on their way down when cratering from the top. The X rating is legitimate. Funny how nit-picky everyone is about the work I've done in this area.

I've heard one "thank you" over the past decade. Amazing how inconsiderate people are hiding behind their computers. All my work stands as is. Maybe enjoy the work others' have put in instead of being whiny all the time. The last move is the crux because you have to jump for the finishing sloper. Your beta doesn't make sense unless you went off route, which isn't really possible due to the blank upper sections. Did you actually climb it? May 14, 2018
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5
Once again, this line will be on a video that I'm putting together. I'll be happy to share it on here so you can see. I did not have to jump for the lip or the shelf below. Both I was able to reach statically, but perhaps that's because this is a grade that is fairly easy for me. I've climbed a lot of highballs throughout the country. Once again, I'm just giving my opinion on the danger rating. You are allowed to disagree. I'm not offended by that. If you measured, then so be it, I'll take your word. It didn't seem 30' to me.

I'm not hiding behind anything. You can see by my profile that I'm well entrenched on MP. I've put up well over 250 FAs in the Northeast and Colorado. You can see videos online of me doing everything I claim to do.

You seem to get very offended when anyone says something contradictory to your beliefs. I'm sorry if you feel like this is some sort of personal attack on you. It's not. I'm just giving my opinion on the grades and safety ratings that I think things should be. May 14, 2018
opusgrooves  
 
I get very offended because most people on MP tend to disregard the hard work that goes into development, most having never worked their own lines to begin with. Since you're a developer I can respect the difference of opinion, but with Mammoth I can hardly agree the landing is anything but sketchy. Again, I respect your opinions and if I seem offended it's because I'm quite tired of people taking fore granted the work that goes into these lines. There is a surplus of people who don't climb for shit and sit on MP bashing other people's work, so yes, I can be a bit touchy to say the least. May 14, 2018
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5
I get it. That's not my intent. In terms of safety rating, this technically should have an 'R' rating, rather than an 'X', since the difference between those two is that an 'X' rating is meant to imply that a fall would result in death, while an 'R' rating implies that a fall could result in serious injury. But, ultimately people can call it whatever they want. The only reason I was giving my opinion on the safety ratings for lots of climbs was because my girlfriend doesn't like to climb things that are dangerous. So, when I looked at a lot of climbs that were on MP for this area and they had PG-13 or X ratings, it made me wonder if she was going to have fun and so we almost didn't come as a result. But, then in person, she was comfortable with pretty much every climb on here. So, I wouldn't want other people to be turned away because of those ratings. Anyhow, this is taken from the ASCA (American Safe Climbing Association) website:

R- runout, where a fall would likely result in serious injury
R/X- very runout, where a fall at the wrong place will likely result in at least serious injury and possibly death
X- extremely runout, where a fall at the wrong place will likely result in death May 14, 2018
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5
Here's video of this line, as promised. Footage of this climb starts at 9:35

vimeo.com/270491484 May 18, 2018
opusgrooves  
 
The warm feeling seeing this video gave me is indescribable. That's why I've worked so damn hard over the years to develop boulder problems and the reality is the ONLY problem we disagree on the grade is Hyperbole. I'm totally okay with that and think this is a beautiful video. So amazingly happy to see you guys working some of my projects. Thanks for sharing this. Epic feelings on my end! May 22, 2018
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
This was the nicest, most imformative, back-and-forth COMMENT give-and-take that I have ever read or heard of. Bravo to both of you !

(ps - as someone who had a friend-of-a-friend die in a simple 10 ft backward fall, I'd keep the "X", although just like "PG-13" I'd like to see an official "R/X" rating) Jun 11, 2018
jessie briggs  
  V4
Certainly not an X rated climb. It’s a highball boulder. Be careful obviously. Also, I’m not even sure V4 is appropriate, felt more like a V3, definitely not a V5. Stellar line though! Jul 5, 2018
opusgrooves  
 
@jessiebriggs

This is a V5 and has been confirmed by several generations of climbers. I live and climb in Bishop and have lots of experience and this thing is easily harder than 5's I've done here and the Valley, both of which are notoriously sandbagged.

Thanks for the opinion but we've taken a consensus and are happy with the grade.

The first few moves are the crux. Jul 8, 2018
opusgrooves  
 
SIDE NOTE:

I've watched Christian's video about a dozen times and it makes me so damn happy!

I can't express how much it means to me. Thanks man... It's why I develop boulder problems. So thankful you made this! Jul 8, 2018
jessie briggs  
  V4
Christian’s videos are always great! I agree crux is the right hand to the side pull. It’s a sweet line that makes you think at the top for sure! Jul 9, 2018

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