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May 6, 2025
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FYI, there are no bolts on the crux pitch; that intermediate rap station is gone.
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Sep 11, 2023
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A couple of comments about Dolomites in general. If you, an American, are trying to use MP as a guidebook r…
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Aug 25, 2023
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A couple of comments about this route and Dolomites in general. If you, an American, are trying to use MP a…
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Oct 7, 2014
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I really enjoyed this route, but I was wondering about the crux--I'm a tall guy, and it was a lot easier to…
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Oct 8, 2013
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Luke, kudos to you (or whoever replaced the anchors). The first anchors were truly nightmarish: a crappy bo…
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Jul 2, 2013
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With a TR, a couple of rests, and stepping on gear, this was no more more than 5.10+... Awesome route. M…
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Jul 2, 2013
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Did this after Paradise Lost and the moves seem just as hard or harder, though not for as long. Even with t…
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Jun 4, 2013
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The question is, where should it go? I busted some wild moves out around the arete on TR to gain the offwid…
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Jan 22, 2013
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The first pitch is like climbing on a slab covered in eggshells. At the crux I broke what seemed to be a ke…
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Jan 6, 2013
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If you are doing the routes at the first cliff please be careful not to lower/rap off the end of your rope!…
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Jan 6, 2013
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I top-roped the link-up from the top of the second pitch to the top of the pillar. There is an odd stray bo…
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Jan 4, 2013
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Also worth noting that this feels hard for the grade, in addition to having to bust 5.10+ moves above the h…
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Mar 5, 2012
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How did he do the aid section?
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Feb 14, 2012
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The "extra" bolt is definitely not on the route, and clipping it would give you a lot of drag unless you pu…
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Dec 5, 2011
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Felt hard for the grade, and would probably feel less scary if it got more traffic. Long runouts above blac…
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Jul 10, 2011
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Make sure you find the good nut placement in the horizontal. It's hard to miss, but somehow I did and had t…
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May 22, 2011
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Great route, Royal! Bouldery start + sustained jamming = pump.
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Mar 9, 2011
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I remember this being rated 12a in the guidebook, and feeling soft at that....
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Mar 1, 2011
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The line of bolts that angles right along the dyke and joins Just Barely at top is called Just Lovely. In m…
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Mar 1, 2011
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Classic line. Perhaps a little easier if you have a big reach. Wonderfully thought-provoking moves high up.…
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Dec 6, 2010
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A way of making this climb longer, though somewhat more runout, is to stay on the arete instead of traversi…
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Jun 18, 2010
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Doing these back-to-back ups the grade, I think. The guidebook says they're the two most "Yosemite-like" cr…
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Jun 18, 2010
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I took the 3.5 in 2007 -- it still looks good!
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Jun 18, 2010
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Broke a hold and took a long fall. Bad rock (duh) and route is a bit contrived. My least favorite of all th…
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Jun 10, 2010
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I have to second Luke on this--the starting moves do feel incredibly hard (and sharp!); much harder than th…
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Jun 10, 2010
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I think the right start is significantly harder (and longer) than the left.
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Jun 10, 2010
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This climb is heady, but never frightening. You must make one move high above the first bolt, and the climb…
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Jun 8, 2010
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BEES!
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Feb 16, 2010
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This route has horribly loose rock. Giant loose flakes and crumbling feet throughout, with perhaps 20 feet…
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Jun 22, 2009
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This is a fun route for sure. You need small wires and tcus for the first pitch. If you are over 6'1" it is…
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Mar 3, 2009
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Just a note on The Manly Dike: though well-bolted for Joshua Tree standards, a few of these bolts really ar…
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