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Areas in Sycamore Canyon

Paradise Forks 136 / 1 / 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 138
Volunteer Canyon 80 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 83
Whitetail Canyon 5 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 7,000 ft
GPS: 35.1, -111.966 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 121,443 total · 1,669/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jan 24, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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Description

Sycamore Canyon is a massive Mogollon Rim drainage tucked away in a thick Ponderosa pine forest, just south of Garland Prairie. Timeless crags such as Paradise Forks, Volunteer Canyon, "The land of a thousand climbs" Sycamore Point, and a newer addition, Whitetail Canyon, are all found on the rim of Sycamore Canyon. These columnar basalt canyons are home to some of the best hard rock crack climbing in Arizona.

Climbing at Volunteer Canyon and Paradise Forks began in the middle 1970's with true ground up endeavors usually involving splitter hand and fist cracks. However, Paradise Forks stole the spolight due to the long alluring crack climbs, and all around easy, year round access. Many of the classic lines were done on passive gear, and maybe an occasional pin. The first ascents of these routes were truly inspired outings, when you think about the parallel sided cracks which make the Forks such a treasure.

Paradise Forks has matured, and filled out with a ton of classics over the last four decades. Generations of bold climbers have come and gone, and every one has left a history of hard, spicy climbing. The Forks is known for down home crack jamming, and for the thinner, technical routes which often come with heart racing ratings. This is a crag where you can get your first taste of "5.9 Hands", or find a head point project to up your ante.



Volunteer Canyon has a big feel to it, and is somewhat wild when compared to The Forks. Many of the lines done here in the 1970's, and modern day classics alike, require rapping into very specific belays, due to the architecture of the walls and lines. One way or the other, you gotta climb out. Whether that's climbing the route, or jugging up your rap line in defeat. However, the jagged, hypnotizing beauty of the canyon is undeniable, as well as, the long, striking lines.


Getting There

Follow directions for the individual crags.

229 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sycamore Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Black Rose
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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mayflower
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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pillow Case
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5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fool's Game
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5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ship Of Fools
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5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pillow Fight
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5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raindance
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5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Of Eden
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5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Jolly Roger
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5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Torpedo
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5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Loose Lips
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5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Prow
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5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davidson Dihedral
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5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mutiny on the Bounty
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5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Paradise Lost
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Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Black Rose Paradise Forks > Obsidian Wall 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mayflower Paradise Forks > Prow 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pillow Case Paradise Forks > Pillow Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Fool's Game Paradise Forks > Prow 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Ship Of Fools Paradise Forks > Prow 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Pillow Fight Paradise Forks > Pillow Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Raindance Paradise Forks > Raindance Buttress 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
East Of Eden Paradise Forks > Gold Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Jolly Roger Paradise Forks > Prow 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Torpedo Paradise Forks > Davidson Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Loose Lips Paradise Forks > Davidson Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The Prow Paradise Forks > Prow 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Davidson Dihedral Paradise Forks > Pillow Wall 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Mutiny on the Bounty Paradise Forks > Prow 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Paradise Lost Paradise Forks > Davidson Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sycamore Canyon »

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