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Areas in Sycamore Canyon

Paradise Forks 143 / 2 / 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 146
Volunteer Canyon 95 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 100
Whitetail Canyon 6 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 7,000 ft
GPS: 35.1, -111.966 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 167,222 total · 2,015/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jan 24, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Description

Sycamore Canyon is a massive Mogollon Rim drainage tucked away in a thick Ponderosa pine forest, just south of Garland Prairie. Timeless crags such as Paradise Forks, Volunteer Canyon, "The land of a thousand climbs" Sycamore Point, and a newer addition, Whitetail Canyon, are all found on the rim of Sycamore Canyon. These columnar basalt canyons are home to some of the best hard stone crack climbing in Arizona with grades that range from 5.7 to 5.13+.

Climbing at Volunteer Canyon and Paradise Forks began in the middle 1970's with true ground up endeavors usually involving splitter hand and fist cracks. Paradise Forks stole the spolight due to the long alluring splitters, and easy year round access. Many of the classic lines were done on passive gear and maybe an occasional pin. The first ascents of these routes were truly inspired outings when you think about the parallel sided cracks which make the Forks such a treasure.

The White Narwhal. Photo: B.McCord

Paradise Forks has matured and filled out with a ton of classics over the last four decades. Generations of bold climbers have come and gone, and every one has left a history of hard, spicy climbing. The Forks is known for down home crack jamming and for the thinner, technical routes which often come with heart racing ratings. This is a crag where you can get your first taste of "5.9 Hands" or find a head point project to up your ante.

Volunteer Canyon has a big feel to it and is somewhat wild when compared to The Forks. Many of the lines done here in the 1970's and modern day classics alike, require rapping into very specific belays due to the architecture of the walls and lines. One way or the other, you gotta climb out. Whether that's climbing the route, or jugging up your rap line in defeat. However, the jagged, hypnotizing beauty of the canyon is undeniable, as well as, the long, striking lines.

Getting There

Follow directions for the individual crags.

254 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sycamore Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 71
The Black Rose
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 157
Mayflower
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 79
Pillow Case
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 90
Pillow Talk
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 100
Fool's Game
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 77
Ship Of Fools
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 94
Pillow Fight
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 56
Raindance
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 94
East of Eden
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 81
Jolly Roger
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 90
Torpedo
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 66
Loose Lips
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 131
The Prow
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 77
Davidson Dihedral
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 45
Paradise Lost
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Black Rose Paradise Forks > Obsidian Wall
 71
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mayflower Paradise Forks > Prow
 157
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pillow Case Paradise Forks > Pillow Wall
 79
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pillow Talk Paradise Forks > Pillow Wall
 90
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Fool's Game Paradise Forks > Prow
 100
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Ship Of Fools Paradise Forks > Prow
 77
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Pillow Fight Paradise Forks > Pillow Wall
 94
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Raindance Paradise Forks > Raindance Buttress
 56
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
East of Eden Paradise Forks > Gold Wall
 94
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Jolly Roger Paradise Forks > Prow
 81
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Torpedo Paradise Forks > Davidson Wall
 90
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Loose Lips Paradise Forks > Davidson Wall
 66
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The Prow Paradise Forks > Prow
 131
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Davidson Dihedral Paradise Forks > Pillow Wall
 77
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Paradise Lost Paradise Forks > Davidson Wall
 45
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sycamore Canyon »

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