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Routes in The Fortress

Arms Control T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Catapult T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Man Who Cried (AKA Julius Seizure), The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Natural Selection T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
New Hampshire, Naturally T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Old Man Down the Road, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roark T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rope Drag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sublimation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tower of Godliness - Original Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weekend Warrior T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Description

The Fortress is a stunning spine-like formation that runs east to west in the heart of the northern part of the Wonderland of Rocks. Numerous vertical, slanting, or discontinuous crack systems are found on the north face. Directly north of the Fortress is the Flying Fortress and lying west is the Grey Giant and the Tombstone. These formations feature excellent crack and face climbs.

Legendary climbers including Randy Leavitt, Tony Yaniro, and Mike Lechlinski established a few of the best and longest climbs in the Park on the Fortress and adjacent formations. Natural Selection (5.10d) and Weekend Warrior (5.11a) are two examples of superb crack climbs but the ultra-classic on this wall is the Catapult (5.11b).

Climbers making the relatively long trek to this area should have a comprehensive rack with stoppers and cams to 4". Two ropes to rappel off are also necessary.

Getting There

The approach to this area begins in the large parking area near Key's Corner where the boyscout trail to Indian Cove exists. Head northeast on the well-marked trail for about a mile. When the trail forks, take the trail that veers northeast. After about one more mile, the trail ends in a wash that branches northeast and south.

The Atom Smasher Boulders and Timbuktu Towers lie to the northeast. Take the wash that veers in a southerly direction (trail markers have been recently established) and follow it as it meanders towards the Grey Giant. Numerous boulders in the wash near the Grey Giant require boulder hopping and tunnelling.

The best approach to The Fortress from the base of the Grey Giant is to remain north of the Grey Giant and head east for a notch between the Grey Giant and Flying Fortress. This entails some time consuming scrambling and boulder hopping. Once the notch is reached, the serene Fortress Valley lies before you.

The Wonderland Guide by Alan Barlett and Randy's guide are invaluable as references for this area.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Fortress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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