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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Wonderland of R…
> Wonderland North
> Grey Giant Area
> Fortress
Catapult
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British R
Avg: 3.6 from 5
votes
Routes in The Fortress
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Arms Control T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Catapult T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Grubstake Days T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Man Who Cried (AKA Julius Seizure), The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Natural Selection T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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New Hampshire, Naturally T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Old Man Down the Road, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roark T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rope Drag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sublimation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tower of Godliness - Original Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Weekend Warrior T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 34.06345, -116.14818 |
| FA: | Tony Yaniro, Brett Maurer, Suzanne Sanbar |
| Page Views: | 2,050 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Vernon Stiefel on Nov 2, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is one of the best I have climbed at J-Tree. Challenging moves on solid rock for about 140' makes this a five star classic.
Begin about 30' left of a vertical crack that does not reach the ground to gain a horizontal discontinuous seam after 10' of easy climbing. Traverse right on thin edges to a point where the seam ends about 10 feet from where the vertical crack begins. A 0 TCU protects committing face moves (5.11) to a huge horn. Turn the corner and ascend the flared, vertical crack (initially thin pro) that becomes wider and lower angle for close to 100'.
A bolted anchor with slings is used to rappel off of the route.
Double ropes work well to minimize rope drag and to rap.
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