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Routes in The Fortress

Arms Control T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Catapult T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Man Who Cried (AKA Julius Seizure), The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Natural Selection T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
New Hampshire, Naturally T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Old Man Down the Road, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roark T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rope Drag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sublimation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tower of Godliness - Original Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weekend Warrior T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro, Brett Maurer, Suzanne Sanbar
Page Views: 895 total · 5/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 2, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route is one of the best I have climbed at J-Tree. Challenging moves on solid rock for about 140' makes this a five star classic.

Begin about 30' left of a vertical crack that does not reach the ground to gain a horizontal discontinuous seam after 10' of easy climbing. Traverse right on thin edges to a point where the seam ends about 10 feet from where the vertical crack begins. A 0 TCU protects committing face moves (5.11) to a huge horn. Turn the corner and ascend the flared, vertical crack (initially thin pro) that becomes wider and lower angle for close to 100'.

A bolted anchor with slings is used to rappel off of the route.

Double ropes work well to minimize rope drag and to rap.

Protection [Suggest Change]

This climb requires very small cams to 3" and medium sized stoppers for protection.



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