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Areas in Wonderland North

Atom Smasher Area 19 / 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 27
Grey Giant Area 29 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
Middle Kingdom, The 62 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 76
North Wonderland Approach 137 / 16 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 169
Willow Hole Area 18 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21

Description

The North Wonderland (and the Wonderland in general) is the antithesis of the "bumper belay" crags found in Indian Cove. Although flat, approaches are as much as 3+ miles and 1+ hours of hiking. As such, it sees less traffic than most areas of the Park. Those who venture out will be rewarded with some classic obscure lines as well as a respite from the crowds at Hidden Valley and Lost Horse.

Use the Wonderland Trail approach (see below) for Outward Bound Slab, Cool Dome, Hidden Dome, Ellsmere Island and Gilligan's Island.

The Atom Smashers, Hooter Rocks, The Foot, Super Dome, Super Slab, Super Block, Lemon Dome, Lime Dome, The Dunce Cap, Suicide Horn, The Fortress and The Castle lie further north near Willow Hole.

There is also a small cluster of rocks just east of the parking area which include Reggie Dome, Bubba Rock, B-52 Rock and Garage Rock.

Getting There

Park at the "Key's Corner" Trailhead, 1/2 mile east of Trashcan Rock along Quail Springs Road. This will be on your left at a wide right turn if you are driving from town. Most areas lie to the north and are accessed by the Boy Scout Hiking And Equestrian Trail.

325 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wonderland North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Shardik
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 66
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
The Chief
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pops Goes Hawaiian
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
George's Route (aka Binder)
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yasmine Bleeth
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gandy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Bull with Gas
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dos Chi Chis
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Gas
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Secret to Find
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bighorn Dihedral
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Self Confidence
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hyperion
Trad 3 pitches
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Hydra
Sport
Shardik N Wonderland Appr… > Bear Island 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
Route 66 N Wonderland Appr… > Gilligan's Island > Mary Ann's Face 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
The Chief N Wonderland Appr… > Reggie Dome 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Pops Goes Hawaiian N Wonderland Appr… > Reggie Dome 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
George's Route (aka Binder) Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Yasmine Bleeth Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Gandy Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
A Bull with Gas Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dos Chi Chis Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Love Gas Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Too Secret to Find N Wonderland Appr… > Hidden Dome 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Bighorn Dihedral Willow Hole Area > Suicide Horn Rock 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
No Self Confidence Grey Giant Area > Flying Fortress 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Hyperion Grey Giant Area > Grey Giant 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
Hydra Willow Hole Area > Super Block 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
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