Elevation: 4,200 ft
GPS: 34.041, -116.186 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 296,448 total · 1,473/month
Shared By: M Morley on Jan 3, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The North Wonderland (and the Wonderland in general) is the antithesis of the "bumper belay" crags found at some of the popular venues.

Although flat, approaches are as much as 3+ miles and 1+ hours of hiking and as such sees less traffic than most areas of the Park. Those who venture out will be rewarded with some classic obscure lines as well as a respite from the crowds at Hidden Valley and elsewhere.

Use the Wonderland Trail approach (see below) for Outward Bound Slab, Cool Dome, Hidden Dome, Ellsmere Island and Gilligan's Island.

The Atom Smashers, Hooter Rocks, The Foot, Super Dome, Super Slab, Super Block, Lemon Dome, Lime Dome, The Dunce Cap, Suicide Horn, The Fortress and The Castle lie further north near Willow Hole.

There is also a small cluster of rocks just east of the parking area which include Reggie Dome, Bubba Rock, B-52 Rock and Garage Rock.

Getting There

Park at the "Key's Corner" Trailhead, 1/2 mile east of Trashcan Rock along Quail Springs Road. This will be on your left at a wide right turn if you are driving from town. Most areas lie to the north and are accessed by the Boy Scout Hiking And Equestrian Trail.

346 Total Climbs

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Location: Wonderland North Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Wonderland North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 76
Shardik
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 63
Route 66
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 132
The Chief
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 46
Kodiak
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 62
Pops Goes Hawaiian
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 73
George's Route (aka Binder)
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 97
Yasmine Bleeth
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 75
Gandy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 54
A Bull with Gas
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 128
Dos Chi Chis
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 55
Love Gas
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 55
Too Secret to Find
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Bighorn Dihedral
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 4
Catapult
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 14
Hyperion
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shardik N Wonderland Ap… > Bear Island
 76
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
Route 66 N Wonderland Ap… > Gilligan's Island > Mary Ann's Face
 63
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
The Chief N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
 132
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Kodiak N Wonderland Ap… > Bear Island
 46
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Pops Goes Hawaiian N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
 62
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
George's Route (aka Binder) Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 73
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Yasmine Bleeth Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 97
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Gandy Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 75
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
A Bull with Gas Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 54
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dos Chi Chis Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 128
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Love Gas Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 55
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Too Secret to Find N Wonderland Ap… > Hidden Dome
 55
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Bighorn Dihedral Willow Hole Area > Suicide Horn Rock
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Catapult Grey Giant Area > Fortress
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad
Hyperion Grey Giant Area > Grey Giant
 14
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
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