All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of Rocks

Wonderland North Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Wonderland North

Atom Smasher Area 20 / 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 28

Grey Giant Area 30 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 33

Middle Kingdom, The 67 / 15 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 82

North Wonderland Approach 142 / 19 / 20 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 182

Willow Hole Area 18 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21

Elevation:	4,200 ft
GPS:	34.041, -116.186 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	296,448 total · 1,473/month
Shared By:	M Morley on Jan 3, 2004
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes History (Admin Only): C Miller edited "Description" Jan 11, 2020

Description

The North Wonderland (and the Wonderland in general) is the antithesis of the "bumper belay" crags found at some of the popular venues.

Although flat, approaches are as much as 3+ miles and 1+ hours of hiking and as such sees less traffic than most areas of the Park. Those who venture out will be rewarded with some classic obscure lines as well as a respite from the crowds at Hidden Valley and elsewhere.

Use the Wonderland Trail approach (see below) for Outward Bound Slab, Cool Dome, Hidden Dome, Ellsmere Island and Gilligan's Island.

The Atom Smashers, Hooter Rocks, The Foot, Super Dome, Super Slab, Super Block, Lemon Dome, Lime Dome, The Dunce Cap, Suicide Horn, The Fortress and The Castle lie further north near Willow Hole.

There is also a small cluster of rocks just east of the parking area which include Reggie Dome, Bubba Rock, B-52 Rock and Garage Rock.

Getting There

Park at the "Key's Corner" Trailhead, 1/2 mile east of Trashcan Rock along Quail Springs Road. This will be on your left at a wide right turn if you are driving from town. Most areas lie to the north and are accessed by the Boy Scout Hiking And Equestrian Trail.

346 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wonderland North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a 76 ● Shardik Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Bear Island
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 63 ● Route 66 Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Gilligan's Island > Mary Ann's Face
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 132 ● The Chief Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 46 ● Kodiak Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Bear Island
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R 62 ● Pops Goes Hawaiian Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 73 ● George's Route (aka Binder) Sport Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 97 ● Yasmine Bleeth Sport Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 75 ● Gandy Sport Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 54 ● A Bull with Gas Sport Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 128 ● Dos Chi Chis Sport 2 pitches Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 55 ● Love Gas Sport Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 55 ● Too Secret to Find Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Hidden Dome
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 12 ● Bighorn Dihedral Trad Willow Hole Area > Suicide Horn Rock
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R 4 ● Catapult Trad Grey Giant Area > Fortress
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 14 ● Hyperion Trad 3 pitches Grey Giant Area > Grey Giant