Elevation: 4,200 ft
GPS: 34.041, -116.186 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 383,879 total · 1,809/month
Shared By: Mike Morley on Jan 3, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

Description

The North Wonderland (and the Wonderland in general) is the antithesis of the "bumper belay" crags found at some of the popular venues.

Although flat, approaches are as much as 3+ miles and 1+ hours of hiking and as such sees less traffic than most areas of the Park. Those who venture out will be rewarded with some classic obscure lines as well as a respite from the crowds at Hidden Valley and elsewhere.

Use the Wonderland Trail approach (see below) for Outward Bound Slab, Cool Dome, Hidden Dome, Ellsmere Island and Gilligan's Island.

The Atom Smashers, Hooter Rocks, The Foot, Super Dome, Super Slab, Super Block, Lemon Dome, Lime Dome, The Dunce Cap, Suicide Horn, The Fortress and The Castle lie further north near Willow Hole.

There is also a small cluster of rocks just east of the parking area which include Reggie Dome, Bubba Rock, B-52 Rock and Garage Rock.

Getting There

Park at the "Key's Corner" Trailhead, 1/2 mile east of Trashcan Rock along Quail Springs Road. This will be on your left at a wide right turn if you are driving from town. Most areas lie to the north and are accessed by the Boy Scout Hiking And Equestrian Trail.

347 Total Climbs

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Location: Wonderland North Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Wonderland North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 87
Shardik
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 80
Route 66
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 147
The Chief
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 50
Kodiak
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 68
Pops Goes Hawaiian
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 33
Asian Friends
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 78
George's Route (aka Binder)
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
Hit it Ethel
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 99
Yasmine Bleeth
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 82
Gandy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 58
A Bull with Gas
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 132
Dos Chi Chis
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 61
Love Gas
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 63
Too Secret to Find
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 15
Hyperion
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shardik N Wonderland Ap… > Bear Island
 87
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
Route 66 N Wonderland Ap… > Gilligan's Island > Mary Ann's Face
 80
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
The Chief N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
 147
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Kodiak N Wonderland Ap… > Bear Island
 50
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Pops Goes Hawaiian N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
 68
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Asian Friends Middle Kingdom > … > W Mongolia > Asian Friends Buttress
 33
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
George's Route (aka Binder) Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 78
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Hit it Ethel N Wonderland Ap… > Gilligan's Island > Mary Ann's Face
 36
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Yasmine Bleeth Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 99
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Gandy Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 82
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
A Bull with Gas Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 58
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dos Chi Chis Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 132
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Love Gas Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 61
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Too Secret to Find N Wonderland Ap… > Hidden Dome
 63
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Hyperion Grey Giant Area > Grey Giant
 15
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
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