All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of Rocks

Wonderland North Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Wonderland North

Atom Smasher Area 22 / 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 30

Grey Giant Area 34 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 37

Middle Kingdom, The 70 / 15 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 85

North Wonderland Approach 149 / 19 / 21 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 190

Willow Hole Area 18 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22

Elevation:	4,200 ft
GPS:	34.04098, -116.18582 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	501,629 total · 2,123/month
Shared By:	Mike Morley on Jan 3, 2004
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

Description

The North Wonderland (and the Wonderland in general) is the antithesis of the "bumper belay" crags found at some of the popular venues.

Although flat, approaches are as much as 3+ miles and 1+ hours of hiking and as such sees less traffic than most areas of the Park. Those who venture out will be rewarded with some classic obscure lines as well as a respite from the crowds at Hidden Valley and elsewhere.

Use the Wonderland Trail approach (see below) for Outward Bound Slab, Cool Dome, Hidden Dome, Ellsmere Island and Gilligan's Island.

The Atom Smashers, Hooter Rocks, The Foot, Super Dome, Super Slab, Super Block, Lemon Dome, Lime Dome, The Dunce Cap, Suicide Horn, The Fortress and The Castle lie further north near Willow Hole.

There is also a small cluster of rocks just east of the parking area which include Reggie Dome, Bubba Rock, B-52 Rock and Garage Rock.

Getting There

Park at the "Key's Corner" Trailhead, 1/2 mile east of Trashcan Rock along Quail Springs Road. This will be on your left at a wide right turn if you are driving from town. Most areas lie to the north and are accessed by the Boy Scout Hiking And Equestrian Trail.

364 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wonderland North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a 115 ● Shardik Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Bear Island
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 111 ● Route 66 Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Gilligan's Island > Mary Ann's Face
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 174 ● The Chief Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 71 ● Kodiak Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Bear Island
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R 75 ● Pops Goes Hawaiian Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 37 ● Asian Friends Trad Middle Kingdom > … > W Mongolia > Asian Friends Buttress
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 88 ● George's Route (aka Binder) Sport Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 46 ● Hit it Ethel Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Gilligan's Island > Mary Ann's Face
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 113 ● Yasmine Bleeth Sport Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 89 ● Gandy Sport Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 62 ● A Bull with Gas Sport Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 143 ● Dos Chi Chis Sport 2 pitches Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 66 ● Love Gas Sport Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 71 ● Too Secret to Find Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Hidden Dome
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 16 ● Hyperion Trad 3 pitches Grey Giant Area > Grey Giant