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Elevation: 4,200 ft 1,280 m
GPS: 34.04098, -116.18582
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Shared By: Mike Morley on Jan 3, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The North Wonderland (and the Wonderland in general) is the antithesis of the "bumper belay" crags found at some of the popular venues.

Although flat, approaches are as much as 3+ miles and 1+ hours of hiking and as such sees less traffic than most areas of the Park. Those who venture out will be rewarded with some classic obscure lines as well as a respite from the crowds at Hidden Valley and elsewhere.

Use the Wonderland Trail approach (see below) for Outward Bound Slab, Cool Dome, Hidden Dome, Ellsmere Island and Gilligan's Island.

The Atom Smashers, Hooter Rocks, The Foot, Super Dome, Super Slab, Super Block, Lemon Dome, Lime Dome, The Dunce Cap, Suicide Horn, The Fortress and The Castle lie further north near Willow Hole.

There is also a small cluster of rocks just east of the parking area which include Reggie Dome, Bubba Rock, B-52 Rock and Garage Rock.

Getting There Suggest change

Park at the "Key's Corner" Trailhead, 1/2 mile east of Trashcan Rock along Quail Springs Road. This will be on your left at a wide right turn if you are driving from town. Most areas lie to the north and are accessed by the Boy Scout Hiking And Equestrian Trail.

396 Total Climbs

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Location: Wonderland North Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Wonderland North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 125
Route 66
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 195
The Chief
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 119
Yasmine Bleeth
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 147
Dos Chi Chis
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 74
Too Secret to Find
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Bighorn Dihedral
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 19
No Self Confidence
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Heaven Can Wait
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
The S Cracker
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
The Knight In Shining Armor
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 6
Catapult
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 17
Hyperion
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
Ionic Strength
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Warrior Eagle
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
The Powers That Be
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Route 66 N Wonderland Ap… > Gilligan's Island > Mary Ann's Face
 125
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
The Chief N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
 195
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Yasmine Bleeth Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 119
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dos Chi Chis Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 147
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Too Secret to Find N Wonderland Ap… > Hidden Dome
 74
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Bighorn Dihedral Willow Hole Area > Suicide Horn Rock
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
No Self Confidence Grey Giant Area > Flying Fortress
 19
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Heaven Can Wait Grey Giant Area > Tombstone
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
The S Cracker Grey Giant Area > Tombstone
 6
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
The Knight In Shining Armor Grey Giant Area > Castle
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Catapult Grey Giant Area > Fortress
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad
Hyperion Grey Giant Area > Grey Giant
 17
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
Ionic Strength Atom Smasher Area > Atom Smasher Boulders
 15
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Warrior Eagle Grey Giant Area > Castle
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
The Powers That Be Atom Smasher Area > Ivory Tower
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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