All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of Rocks

Wonderland North Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Wonderland North

Atom Smasher Area 22 / 7 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 31

Grey Giant Area 35 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 38

Middle Kingdom, The 85 / 15 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 105

North Wonderland Approach 162 / 22 / 31 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 217

Willow Hole Area 19 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23

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Elevation:	4,200 ft	1,280 m
GPS:	34.04098, -116.18582 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	503,062 total · 1,862/month
Shared By:	Mike Morley on Jan 3, 2004
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

The North Wonderland (and the Wonderland in general) is the antithesis of the "bumper belay" crags found at some of the popular venues.

Although flat, approaches are as much as 3+ miles and 1+ hours of hiking and as such sees less traffic than most areas of the Park. Those who venture out will be rewarded with some classic obscure lines as well as a respite from the crowds at Hidden Valley and elsewhere.

Use the Wonderland Trail approach (see below) for Outward Bound Slab, Cool Dome, Hidden Dome, Ellsmere Island and Gilligan's Island.

The Atom Smashers, Hooter Rocks, The Foot, Super Dome, Super Slab, Super Block, Lemon Dome, Lime Dome, The Dunce Cap, Suicide Horn, The Fortress and The Castle lie further north near Willow Hole.

There is also a small cluster of rocks just east of the parking area which include Reggie Dome, Bubba Rock, B-52 Rock and Garage Rock.

Getting There

Park at the "Key's Corner" Trailhead, 1/2 mile east of Trashcan Rock along Quail Springs Road. This will be on your left at a wide right turn if you are driving from town. Most areas lie to the north and are accessed by the Boy Scout Hiking And Equestrian Trail.

414 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wonderland North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 153 ● Route 66 Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Gilligan's Island > Mary Ann's Face
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 207 ● The Chief Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 129 ● Yasmine Bleeth Sport Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 159 ● Dos Chi Chis Sport 2 pitches Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 82 ● Too Secret to Find Trad N Wonderland Ap… > Hidden Dome
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 17 ● Bighorn Dihedral Trad Willow Hole Area > Suicide Horn Rock
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 19 ● No Self Confidence Trad Grey Giant Area > Flying Fortress
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 7 ● Heaven Can Wait Trad Grey Giant Area > Tombstone
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 7 ● The S Cracker Trad Grey Giant Area > Tombstone
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 9 ● The Knight In Shining Armor Trad Grey Giant Area > Castle
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R 5 ● Catapult Trad Grey Giant Area > Fortress
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 19 ● Hyperion Trad 3 pitches Grey Giant Area > Grey Giant
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 15 ● Ionic Strength Trad Atom Smasher Area > Atom Smasher Boulders
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 7 ● Warrior Eagle Trad Grey Giant Area > Castle
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 4 ● The Powers That Be Sport Atom Smasher Area > Ivory Tower