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Routes in The Castle

Knight In Shining Armor, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Warrior Eagle T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro, 1981
Page Views: 1,280 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jerry Handren on Mar 3, 2010
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route climbs the big, clean corner on the north side of the rock. This route used to be a little flaky, but it has now cleaned up considerably, to give a much better and slightly harder route, probably at the top end of the grade.
Joshua Tree has a bunch of good stemming corners but this is one the best.

Location

This route climbs the big, clean corner on the north side of the rock. It is mostly shady.

Protection

Protection is good, but hard to place. Almost the entire lower crack is #3 BD stopper size, so bring 4-5 in that size. Small to medium wires, RP's a few tcu's and 1"-2" cams for the final crack. The anchor uses 1-1.5" cams 15' back from the edge. A tree provides a convenient rap.

Photos

Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.12b
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.12b
I found that the lower crack protected with a variety of RPs and small/micro wires. I don't think I placed any #3 BD nuts. That being said, most of the pieces I placed were around that size.

This is a super rad route. Feb 27, 2016

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